At the age of 10, she became involved with gangs in her hometown of Compton. And when she was in her early 20s, while homeless and pregnant, her son Demetrius tragically passed away just days before his third birthday. After his passing, she “became a member of the walking dead,” Raines says. “I couldn’t face myself in the mirror.” She started wearing makeup to mask her pain. “If I drew my eyebrows high enough, nobody could tell I was frowning,” she says. “If my eyes were red from applying eyeliner, no one would know I’d actually been crying.” She suffered for years with anxiety and panic attacks; finally, Raines’s twin sister pulled her aside and told her that her son wouldn’t have wanted her to live like this.

 

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It was the motivation Raines needed to make a change. She was inspired to join a volunteer group with her local church, where she helped put together bags of food for the homeless. While she was handing out food, women would compliment Raines’s makeup. “I’d respond: ‘You want me to do your hair and makeup? Because I can; I’m a ‘hood stylist,’” she laughs. Aside from understanding that beauty practices can provide a confidence boost, Raines also knows the power of caring, gentle touch. “Women on the streets are touched violently and without consent every day,” she says. “Imagine someone saying to them ‘Let me wash your hair.’” Indeed, Beauty 2 The Streetz’s website reads “The lack of a home does not mean a lack of humanity.”

So in 2015, Raines loaded up on the mini mascaras she’d bought with her Sephora Beauty Insider Rewards, along with dollar-store lashes and lash glue, and began travelling to L.A.’s Skid Row weekly to hand them out. Once she’d exhausted all her cash, rewards and free samples, she turned to her social media followers (5,000 at the time) to ask for donations. They delivered — and never stopped. Today, Beauty 2 The Streetz has over six million followers between Instagram and TikTok, and brands like Thrive Causemetics, Unilever, Haus Labs and Fenty Beauty have all donated to the non-profit. In 2021, Raines was named CNN’s Hero of the Year.

“Beauty can be external, but it can also be an internal form of CPR.”

Raines still has her critics, though. She has been called a “clout chaser” for sharing her good deeds online and accused of recording the homeless without their consent. “Everywhere I go, I tell the community what I’m doing,” she clarifies. “If they don’t want to be filmed, they don’t have to be.” Ultimately, she isn’t fazed by detractors. “I know my heart,” she says. Raines also fields constant questions about why the unhoused community needs beauty products at all. “When you take a shower and wash your hair, you feel better,” she says. “There are husbands and wives sleeping in tents together. We provide soap and hair products so they can smell good. They don’t have to look like what they’ve been through.”

Raines sees her former self in the unhoused populations she serves. “They’re asking to see a different version of themselves — I did that, too,” she says. “I know how empowering beauty is. If hair and makeup can get someone to a place where they respect themselves and feel dignified, then let me give them that. Beauty can be external, but it can also be an internal form of CPR.”

Ahead, the tried-and-true beauty essentials Shirley Raines swears by.

Fenty Beauty Pro Filt’r Instant Retouch Primer

“I love the texture and quality. It’s like a primer and moisturizer all in one.”

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Juvia’s Place The Festival Palette

“When women of colour make eyeshadow palettes, they up the ante with pigmentation. They get that we need a little more in our blues and purples.”

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Black Girl Sunscreen SPF 30

“I like to support Black-owned businesses. And we all need to wear sunscreen.”

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Wet N Wild Color Icon Brow Pencil

“You don’t have to spend a lot on makeup to make it look right. It’s all about finding your colour match.”

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Versace Dylan Purple Eau de Parfum

“I like to smell sweet. You’ve got to leave a lingering scent; my mama taught me that.”

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This article first appeared in FASHION’s March 2024 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Shirley Raines Uses Beauty to Uplift and Empower Homeless Communities appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

How do you gather a group of It girls during one of the busiest times in the fashion calendar? Open a stunning new store in the heart of New York City’s shopping district. This week, Hunter Schafer, Amelia Gray, Alex Consani, Justine Skye and more stopped by to celebrate H&M’s return to the artsy SoHo area at a pre-fashion week fête.

The party marked the exclusive sneak peek of the H&M Studio Spring 2024 collection, which blends bold 1970s style staples with modern silhouettes (and is available to shop on February 29). Naturally, attendees’ outfits were fabulous. Consani, wearing an H&M tube-top-mini-skirt set, said it best. “We’re not playing games tonight,” she told FASHION of her look. “Not one game.”

@fashionmagazine #AlexConsani slaying as per usual 💅 At @H&M’s SoHo store launch, the model shares her #2024fashion takes. #alexconsaniedit #alexconsani #newyorkfashionweek #NYFW ♬ original sound – FASHION

Boss reveals a new monogram

In the world of logomania, there’s a new kid on the block. For Spring 2024, Boss has unveiled a new double B monogram that rests on an array of its core pieces.

The sleek, woven design can be seen on suits, bomber jackets, knitwear and a slew of accessories like leather bags, baseball caps and strappy stilettos.

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BonLook releases its Spring 2024 collection

Last week, Wiarton Willie (Ontario’s groundhog, FYI) did not see his shadow. Whether or not we can trust his eyesight is beyond our jurisdiction, but we do know two things: Spring is supposedly coming early and eyewear brand BonLook agrees.

The Canadian label just dropped its Spring 2024 collection. The verdict? A sight for sore eyes (laugh please). Their bevy of styles include vibrant colours that will revitalize any tired wardrobe. Think energetic apricot, lime and rust hues.

A moderate bargain starting at $149 a frame, flinging into spring might be easier than you thought.

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Levi’s collaborates with Gundam, plus more from the iconic denim brand

Is Levi’s flirting with the future? In its latest collaboration, the denim brand teams up with the iconic anime series Gundam SEED. With motifs of the “humanoid Gundam machines” plastered nearly everywhere, this 12-piece collection bridges the gap between digital and physical worlds.

Another drop from Levi’s offers new skateboarding styles, available now as part of the Spring 2024 collection. With superior construction and durability a priority (for obvious reasons), these garments will surely stand the test of time — and many attempted flip tricks. Plus, they’re versatile enough to pair with pieces like canvas vests, fleece button-ups and everything in between.

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This Galentine’s Day, BYOB has a whole new meaning

By now you’ve likely seen the virality of custom charm necklaces. But it’s Aquarius season, so we’re suggesting you go against the grain and try something a little different. Canadian jewellery brand Hillberg & Berk has just launched its limited-edition Build Your Own Bracelet (BYOB) program, where gemstones and crystal beads are the focal point of your new accessory.

Through to the end of February, customers can choose from a curated selection of rose quartz, dark amethyst, crystal quartz and grey agate. Plus, BFF charms and other sparkly add-ons are available if you so choose. It’s the perfect Galentine’s date! Secure an appointment time by booking online.

Book Now

With files from Natalie Michie

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post H&M Kicks Off NYFW With a SoHo Store Opening + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

This year celebrates the Dragon, a symbol known for its strength and resilience. It encourages individuals to embrace their power, presenting a contrast to last year’s focus on tranquility during the Year of the Rabbit (or Cat for those celebrating Vietnamese Tết).

Dressing up is an integral part of the celebration, and Lunar New Year comes with its own set of sartorial guidelines — wear red to attract good fortune, avoid mourning colours like black and white on the day of, embrace accessories like gold and jade to avert bad luck and most importantly: Wear something new! Whether it’s products adorned with dragon motifs or subtle incorporations of lucky colours, we’ve compiled a list of the best Lunar New Year collections and products to ring in the new year in style.

Sandy Liang hair clip

Celebrating Lunar New Year with flowers is a cherished tradition, and the orchid, known for symbolizing fertility, purity and elegance, is a common gift.

Sandy Liang shares her rendition with a pink leather orchid accessory embellished with blood-red crystals. Wear it in your hair or as a brooch, and enjoy a good fortune token that won’t wilt with time.

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Roots x CLOT Lunar New Year zip pouch

Carry a bit of luck with a leather pouch from Roots, created in partnership with Hong Kong-based streetwear brand CLOT. The bag, made out of cervino leather, features an embroidered dragon in gold, green and red.

In addition to the pouch, there are various options featuring the same dragon design, ranging from socks to sweaters, with a select few featuring a “Stay Lucky” slogan.

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On Running Cloudmonster LNY

Chase good fortune this year with a limited edition drop of the Cloudmonster.

In celebration of Lunar New Year, the Cloudmonster now boasts subtle dragon detailing in indigo and ruby, alongside distinguished features such as the iconic rocker shape and Helion superfoam.

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Alexander McQueen LNY handbags

Inspired by the antirrhinum flower, or snapdragon in English, Alexander McQueen presents a collection of leather goods in a dragon flower print. The small and mini seal bag features the dragon flower print in vibrant red and pink.

In addition to the dragon flower print, a selection of wallets, card holders, pouches and more are available in various floral designs and colours.

Available in stores, find your nearest location here

U Beauty The Plasma Lip Compound

Drawing inspiration from U Beauty’s owner’s grandmother and her boldness, Tina Craig Chen unveils the Plasma Lip Compound in the shade “Shanghai.”

This cult favourite plumps and hydrates the lips, the latest shade boasting a vibrant red that’s bound to make you feel powerful from the inside out.

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Bottega Veneta Mini Jodie

Bottega Veneta celebrates Lunar New Year with a take on the classic Jodie bag.

Revamped with a dragon crest detailing in an emerald green and glacier white colourway, the bag is reminiscent of a dragon tail and tied together with their signature knot Intrecciato design.

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Pandora Lunar New Year collection

The Lucky Amulet Charm, Year of the Dragon Charm and Collier Necklace are just a few of the standout pieces from Pandora’s Lunar New Year drop.

The collection features a selection of necklaces, bracelets, charms and more, the accessories symbolizing fresh starts and promises of good luck for the new year.

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Frame Lunar New Year cashmere crew in red

Composed out of cashmere, this long-sleeved crewneck is the lushest way to ring in the year. The sweater features gold detailing on the sides, seamlessly fusing the two most popular colours for the holiday into one.

Wear it buttoned up for a bold statement or wear it open and paired down with neutrals — the garment is a versatile must.

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Sephora Year of the Dragon set

Sephora celebrates the spirit of the dragon with two exclusive limited edition favourites kits, curated for makeup and skincare enthusiasts to tap into their inner strength.

The collection features a carefully selected array of products, including sought-out brands such as Tower 28, Sulwhasoo, NARS, Laura Mercier and Oribe.

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Fossil wristlet keychain

If you’re looking to carry a bit of luck with you throughout the year, Fossil has you covered. Playing off of Fossil’s signature legacy charm design, the Wristlet Keychain features a dragon-stamped detailing attached to ruby red leather, making it the perfect addition to your house keys.

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Montblanc The Dragon Legend Of Zodiac Cufflinks

Montblanc champions the Year of the Dragon with a timeless cufflink. Made with sterling silver and featuring a dragon with a whale tale arm and clasp closure, the accessory seamlessly infuses the zodiac sign into formal and business wear.

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COS Oversized Mohair-Jacquard Cardigan

Minimal design, maximal impact. True to COS’s nature, the Lunar New Year capsule is understatedly chic. The collection features a digitally drawn dragon and is placed on button-down shirts, skirts and sweaters, in an array of colours like blue, beige and brown.

The contemporary brand pairs the design with timeless silhouettes that ring in the year in an oh-so-subtle yet stylish manner.

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The post What to Wear This Lunar New Year appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Love is in the air — romantic, friendship, brotherly and now sisterly (we see you Chloe and Halle Bailey). This Valentine’s day, Pandora has launched a new brand platform titled “Be Love,” a multi-season campaign that drives home the notion that love is more than just a calendar date or a fleeting feeling — it is something one does, lives, embodies and embraces every day.

In the star-studded campaign, three new global ambassadors are introduced for the first time: sisters Chloe and Halle and actress, author and advocate Selma Blair. Arriving in tandem with a range of new jewellery collections, you’ll find pieces made from high-quality sterling silver, 14 karat gold, murano glass and lab-grown diamonds.

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KidSuper takes Canada Goose and the NBA to Paris

 

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Brooklyn-based streetwear brand KidSuper has hopped on court with Canada Goose and the NBA to design a limited-edition four-piece capsule for their ongoing partnership. Featuring a reversible fleece jacket, reversible puffer vest,  toque and more, these new designs debuted on January 21 at KidSuper’s Fall 2024 runway show during Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Central to the collection is designer Colm Dillane’s colourful and whimsical art (which needs no introduction!). Look close enough and you’ll see an abstract iteration of excited fans connecting through sports, a print exclusive to this collaboration in celebration of the 2024 NBA All-Star game. The other key artwork in the collection illustrates snowy mountain peaks and frozen waters — a northern scene known to Canada Goose’s identity.

Available To Shop This Spring

COS releases a unisex jewellery collection for Valentine’s Day

‘Tis the season for jewellery lovers to rejoice. COS is introducing a stackable jewellery capsule ahead of V-Day, and it transcends seasons and gender.

The eclectic rings, earrings, bracelets and charms are designed with interesting textures and irregular shapes, exuding a certain kind of uniqueness not found in most jewellery collections. And although the brand’s use of recycled materials is impressive, the semi-precious stones are the real game-changers. Think clear quartz for clarity and healing, smoky quartz to ground and protect, blue eye tiger to calm and vibrant pink jade to purify.

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Dior Délicat is the crème de la crème of Haute Couture Jewellery

While admiring haute couture collections this time of year, jewellery is not to be forgotten. Take Dior Délicat, for example. Dreamed up by Victoire de Castellane, creative director of Dior Fine Jewellery, this new collection takes all the principles of couture and applies them to jewellery.

Not only does each piece embrace the contours of the wrists, hands and neck (just like couture garments would), the skeletons mimick lace, making it easy to mistaken them for embroidery. Inlaid with glowing rubies, emeralds, blue sapphires, rubellites and tanzanite, its clear that only the most marvellous materials have been chosen for this 79-piece assortment.

Hilary MacMillan introduces The Trench Collection

Trench coats are in, like really in. Just ask Hilary MacMillan, Canadian contemporary womenswear designer whose covetable coats are on every fashion-lover’s wishlist. Next month, MacMillan will be releasing an expanded 15-piece capsule of this hero product.

The collection will drop on hilarymacmillan.com at noon on February 12, but first will launch exclusively at Hilary MacMillan’s very first NYC pop-up shop, running during New York Fashion Week from February 9 to 11. Here’s to standing out in a sea of black winter jackets.

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Louis Vuitton introduces Les Gaston Vuitton, menswear fine jewellery

In a tribute to the late Gaston Louis Vuitton — Louis Vuitton’s grandson and an imaginative creator — the French fashion house has debuted its first men’s fine jewellery collection.

Steeped in the brand’s heritage, the offering of rings, bracelets, necklaces, pendants, tags and earrings feature tiny LV monograms and laser-cut flower motifs, with pops of denim-inspired blue amongst gold and silver metals. Plus titanium, which has never before been used in Louis Vuitton fine jewellery.

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The post Halle and Chloe Bailey Front Pandora’s Valentine’s Day Campaign + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

While leading the Tokyo fashion scene for over 45 years, Beams has been known to dabble with American influence every now and then. Their latest venture is another collaboration with Levi’s (their fourth one!) on a capsule that celebrates simplicity and subtlety.

It’s a playful take on heritage styles with wider silhouettes and bold iterations of classic denim washes.

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Mejuri releases the Puffy Charlotte collection

Considering growing your jewellery collection this year? Thanks to Mejuri’s latest drop, chunkier stacks and plumper silhouettes are right at your fingertips (and wrists and ears).

Seven new styles — from gold hoops to silver cuff bracelets and enamel rings — have been added to the brand’s catalogue, each boasting a bigger and bolder shape than the original Charlotte styles.

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Dior presents a new handbag, the Lady D-Sire

Once again pulling inspiration from the iconic Lady Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ateliers have expertly crafted a new handbag. Enter, Lady D-Sire. Truly something to desire, the purse boasts a supple silhouette that’s both modern and elegant. With its folding handles and interchangeable adjustable strap, you won’t need much more to get through the day.

Available in black, dark brandy and powder beige, in four different sizes (small, medium, large and extra-large) this new Dior sidekick is suited for all tastes. Mark your calendars as it will be arriving on February 8.

Tiffany & Co. mines a 71-carat yellow diamond

Tiffany & Co. has just acquired the largest yellow diamond to ever be mined in Canada — a rarity in the world of gemology. Originally measuring in at 71 carats untouched, Tiffany has transformed the spectacle into two emerald cut vivid yellow diamonds, one sitting at over 20 carats and the other at over 15 carats.

Mined in Ekati, a mine located in Canada’s Northwest Territories, this find further solidifies Tiffany’s reputation as global purveyors of beautiful, rare and sustainably-sourced diamonds.

Biko now offers in-person shopping

If online shopping isn’t for you, you’re going to like this one. Leading jewellery brand Biko has just opened its multifaceted Toronto space (which is already being used as a design studio, manufacturing workshop and showroom) for retail shopping opportunities.

Through an appointment-only approach, you can enjoy a calm and cozy personal shopping experience, similar to browsing the web from the comfort of your home, all while being able to interact with and try on products.

Plus, keep an eye out for Biko’s special public shopping days where all are welcome to drop in, sans appointment. (They appear only twice a year when collections drop!) Get on their Insider List here to stay in-the-know.

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COS and Nativa want you to wear sustainable wool

COS and regenerative wool? Yes, please! The Scandi-girl brand has teamed up with Nativa, a sustainability pioneering provider of luxury Merino wool, on an eight-piece capsule collection that belongs in any quiet luxury supporter’s closet.

Rest easy knowing that these tops, bottoms, blazers and vests are all made from materials from a regenerative farm that is mindful of its CO2 footprint, prioritizes animal welfare and empowers the local community.

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With files from Annika Lautens

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Levi’s Is Back with Another Cool Collaboration + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Amfitheatrof makes no qualms, though, about playing favourites with the first pieces in her latest collection of high jewellery. “Emeralds are my personal favourite, and to have a suite of no-oil Colombian emeralds of this quality and size is so phenomenal,” she says. “I wanted to start with a bang.”

The lush and incredibly rare untreated emeralds (they’re often oiled to improve their numerous natural inclusions) are just one of the many ultra-scarce and extraordinary gems sourced by Louis Vuitton’s gemologists and incorporated into the house’s largest-ever collection — all of which is painstakingly handmade in Paris, including at Place Vendôme, a jewellery mecca of sorts where many of the world’s oldest houses got their start and still exist today.

Wanting to start with a bang is fitting considering the collection, entitled “Deep Time,” aims to take us on a journey to the birth of the planet. Last spring, when Amfitheatrof presented her fifth high-jewellery collection since joining the house in 2018, she set the scene in one of the places we most associate with ancient life and art: Greece. There, 16 stunning suites of jewels were unveiled last spring in corresponding themes, including “Wave,” “Volcano” and “Rupture,” which explore some of life’s most mysterious questions about the beginning of life and time. Through their luminous beauty and sheer artistry, the pieces tell a mystical story of geological legacy and ultimately address the mystery of life in a way that perhaps only Amfitheatrof knows how: through precious gems and metals that are older than humanity itself.

Having been born in Tokyo and educated in London (including at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art) and having lived in Moscow, New York, Paris and Rome, Amfitheatrof approaches her work with a discerning and global view. This latest story is revealed in two acts, geology and life, which can easily be interpreted as another nod of respect to the natural materials she treasures. “We found these beautiful Mexican opals that came from a river that has been dry for over a hundred years,” says Amfitheatrof when describing the “Rupture” suite of pieces. “Opals often show their fire on the surface, but these have a fabulous fire on the inside, which is revealed the minute they reflect light. We’ll never find those stones again.” The piece also includes zircons, which are billions of years old and predate diamonds.

One of the most mysterious gems (scientists still aren’t exactly sure how they form in nature), opals have been compared to the universe throughout history due to their galaxy-like appearance, which includes kaleidoscopic hues and a phenomenal play of colour. It’s no surprise that a jaw-dropping 43.58-carat Australian opal — the largest gem in the collection — was chosen as the centrepiece for one of Deep Time’s most standout pieces, the “Bones” necklace. The design also happens to feature some of the other most prized gems on the planet, including Paraíba tourmalines, famous for their vibrant turquoise colour and copper-induced glow, and tanzanites, which, unlike many other gemstones, have been found in only one place on earth — a small area at the base of Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro.

Many of the jewels, including the aforementioned “Bones” necklace, can be worn in multiple ways. This is a personal intention of Amfitheatrof, as she believes that it’s more important than ever for modern-day jewellery connoisseurs. “No longer are men buying a piece of jewellery for a woman and then letting it sit in the safe,” she says. “Now, women are more adventurous; they have a bolder attitude, and their jewellery is very personal to them. They really want to wear their pieces and enjoy them as much as possible, beyond just at black-tie dinners or the opera. You should be able to do that. Jewellery is a part of you, and it should be a part of your everyday life, if possible.”

Another transformable piece includes the multi-strand “Fossils” necklace, which can be worn three different ways and features an impeccable 27.83-carat blue sapphire from Sri Lanka (considered one of the best sources for sapphires) and a 5.52-carat LV Monogram Star, one of the house’s unique proprietary diamond cuts. Released just last year, the custom cut is a feat. The impossibly intricate necklace, which required 1,740 hours of work, also stands out for its intriguing mix of patterns in platinum, yellow and white gold — a trademark of sorts of Amfitheatrof, a self-described metal lover who says that mixing various colours is one of her favourite ways to soften the overall appearance of a piece that can otherwise look too hard or unnatural on the body.

It’s those types of personal insights that the designer was determined to give more of in her new book, Francesca Amfitheatrof: Fantastical Jewels — a beautiful documentation of her process and inspiration along with behind-the-scenes looks at her work with Louis Vuitton. It’s an astute gift for any jewellery lover as it’s meant to actually be reflected on and enjoyed rather than just put on display. “I think it’s very intimate, like a messy sketchbook; it’s not filled with glossy images of things that are unattainable,” says Amfitheatrof, who notes that the last thing she wanted to do was produce another decorative coffee-table book.

Tapping into the beauty and reality of human existence feels like the MO of a designer who has worked on everything from everyday objects such as eyeglasses to the ultimate expression of worldly beauty dripping in diamonds and emeralds. When asked who might best wear her latest creations, Amfitheatrof conjures yet another fantasy. “I love the idea of John F. Kennedy not passing away. He and Jackie Kennedy divorce. He marries Marilyn Monroe, and she moves into the White House and becomes First Lady.” Amfitheatrof envisions Monroe choosing the exhilarating “Volcano,” a dramatic high-collar necklace featuring a stunning contrast of cushion-cut mandarin garnets and pink tourmalines. Two gems that are defined as metamorphic, they both have the ability to form in lava — reminding us that rousing beauty can spark from some of life’s most brutal conditions, which is a mystery to some but also a tale as old as time.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2024 issue. Find out more here.

The post Louis Vuitton Travels to the Dawn of Time for Its Latest High Jewellery Collection appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

After all, the science of scent is about more than just making things smell nice. Take the aromachology facet of the fragrance industry. Aromachology is the study of how scents affect human psychology and behaviour, and it examines how fragrance can evoke emotions and memories and even influence actions and responses. (The scent of lavender, for example, brings about a sense of calm, while citrus can offer an invigorating boost.) This strong scent-memory link is due to our brain’s anatomy. When it comes to our other senses (taste, touch, sight and sound), sensory information is received in the thalamus, near the centre of the brain. Smell, however, takes a shortcut, bypassing the thalamus and heading straight to the olfactory bulb at the front of the brain. This direct route is why scents trigger immediate vivid memories and evoke strong reactions like nostalgia or comfort. In fact, research shows that nearly 75 per cent of our everyday emotions are linked to scent.

Given the immense power that smell holds, a growing number of brands are using AI tools to provide customers with bespoke fragrances that offer the most precise, personalized creations ever. Digital perfume house No Ordinary Scent uses an algorithm called Emotiontech to create scents based on meaningful memories. Customers feed the algorithm with emotionally charged images (like snaps from past vacations, weddings or birthday parties), and it extracts emotion tags from the images and links them to fragrance notes, developing a custom formula. “Instead of you having one signature scent for a lifetime, AI can allow your fragrances to reflect who you are today,” says Sandra Kinnmark, CEO of No Ordinary Scent. She likens it to building a “fragrance wardrobe” that highlights your personality and grows and evolves as you do.

“It’s crucial to strike a balance between technology and human creativity.”

But can technology ever replace human touch in scent creation? “It’s crucial to strike a balance between technology and human creativity,” says Johanna Monange, founder of fragrance brand Maison 21G. “AI should amplify the creative process rather than replace it. There’s a risk of homogenization if AI algorithms are used excessively, which could result in a loss of diversity and uniqueness in fragrances.”

Human perfumers bring intuition and artistic sensibility to the creation of new fragrances. In order to produce scents that are fresh and innovative, AI must be able to provide data-driven insights without stepping on perfumers’ toes and restricting their creative processes. After all, perfumers bring a lifetime of understanding of nuanced aspects of perfumery, such as culture and history, allowing for deeper meaning and resonance to come through in their creations.

There are, of course, upsides to using AI in fragrance creation. At the forefront of many AI-driven fragrance innovations is wellness. Wearable-tech brand eScent is developing a wearable AI-powered device to promote the mental well-being of users. The system detects when there is an increase in stress and dispenses a desired scent to the user’s device (smart garment, button or jewellery), improving their mental state, explains Dr. Jenny Tillotson, the brand’s founder. And then there’s IFF, a chemical-manufacturing company whose scents promote emotional, cognitive and physical health benefits, such as mindfulness and self-confidence.

AI also plays a role in sustainable fragrance formulation, from enhancing efficiency to reducing waste. As pretty as our perfumes look on bathroom counters, eventually they get tossed, oftentimes unfinished. By diffusing fragrance into a device such as eScent’s, not only is bottle waste reduced but the highly controlled release of materials has a much lower ethanol proportion, thus lowering the amount of “wasted” scent being spritzed into the atmosphere and ultimately reducing a fragrance’s carbon footprint. “With AI, we can create fragrances with a higher rate of success, minimizing the need for multiple iterations,” says Monange. “This leads to a reduction in the consumption of raw materials and energy.”

Custom-fragrance brand Noteworthy subscribes to a “Try before you buy” philosophy. Customers take a Fragrance Finder quiz, answering questions about their personality, life experiences and individual preferences. Based on the responses, four curated fragrance samples are created for them to try before they purchase a full-size bottle, explains Ashley Boyce, co-founder of Noteworthy. “Ultimately, all these AI tools are being used to raise the bar when it comes to the perfume experience and better meet customers’ expectations,” she says. “But it’s up to each individual to choose a fragrance they love and that works for them and their body chemistry; this is something that AI really can’t replace — it can only complement the experience.”

As AI advances in all facets of our daily lives, it will continue to play a bigger role in scent creation and likely become part of the new formula for a fragrance’s success. But fragrance is highly subjective, personal and nuanced. And while AI can be a valuable tool in its creation, formulating scents that are truly unexpected and innovative requires a human touch that technology can’t — or perhaps shouldn’t — replace.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2024 issue. Find out more here.

The post Is the Future of Fragrance In the Hands of AI? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

In conjunction with Stuart Vevers’ Winter 2023 collection, which was designed through a lens of youth counterculture, Lil Nas X has curated a capsule of Coach pieces that is inspired by his expressive approach to style.

The artist’s connection to music and nightlife comes through in the use of leather, shearling, graphics and electric colours, while grunge-worthy handbags round out the capsule collection.

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Louis Vuitton releases its Winter Resorts City Guide box set

The après-ski aesthetic is a lifestyle. So much so that in addition to Louis Vuitton’s coveted ski-wear collections, the French fashion house has released a box set of ski-inspired city guides.

Outlining the most beautiful ski capitals in the world — Courchevel, Cortina d’Ampezzo, Aspen, Gstaad, St. Moritz, Kitzbühel and Crans-Montana — the Winter Resorts City Guide collection highlights emblematic characteristics of each location, ensuring visitors know about every must-see and hidden gem. Also included in the collection are a series of snow-capped post cards illustrated by guest artists.

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Uniqlo and Marimekko collaborate

Finland-based design house Marimekko is dropping a collection that’s true to its Nordic roots, in collaboration with Uniqlo. The goal? To make everyday life richer and more comfortable.

Dropping on January 4, token Marimekko prints cover Uniqlo staples like fleece zip-ups, HeatTech turtlenecks and shoulder bags. In total, there are nine designs for women and girls that evoke feelings of idyllic winter adventures.

Coming January 4

Brunette the Label drops the beloved Shania Jacket in black

If there’s one thing Canadians can agree on, it’s that Shania Twain’s comeback is a highlight of the 2020s thus far. Vancouver-based Brunette the Label’s coveted Shania Jacket (a light-wash denim number emblematic of the pop-country artist’s own style) sold out immediately earlier this year. And today, it is being re-released in black denim.

Our only advice is to act fast, as history tends to repeat itself and this dark denim topper is a hero piece for any wardrobe. Sizes range from XXS to 5XL, which corresponds to numerical sizes 00 to 26.

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This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Lil Nas X Curates a Coach Collection + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Festive extras

A couple of glitzier options are crucial for keeping you on your toes during party season as well as for those times when you want an outfit to instantly feel worthy of a special night out. While a cocktail ring or drop earrings in diamonds are anyone’s best friend, don’t be afraid to consider more-budget-friendly options, such as cubic zirconia, moissanite or natural gems like citrine, morganite, topaz and amethyst.

Add your signature

Since incorporating personal touches is the key to making your collection feel curated among a sea of oh-so-basics, a signature item you can wear any time is the last piece of your sparkling puzzle. Look for something with special meaning that will go with just about anything — the crown jewel in your trove of well-thought-out treasures.

Pure vs. plated

To invest in jewels you’ll feel confident will go the distance, remember that not everything has to be made in solid silver, gold or platinum to make it worth its weight in, er, gold. Pieces labelled “gold-filled” are perhaps the most durable “impure” option, with an extra-thick layer of solid gold permanently bonded to a metal base, while vermeil is beneficial for those with metal allergies as it’s made of hypoallergenic gold-plated sterling silver.

Tap into your personal style

“How you mix and match your pieces will create your own recipe,” says Justine Lançon, chief creative officer for Canadian jewellery brand Mejuri. After all, not everyone gravitates toward a classic bangle bracelet or a run-of-the-mill pearl necklace. And having a relaxed approach to mixing metals is a way to not only bring a more modern and interesting appeal to your jewellery wardrobe but also help you tie various looks together.

Want more suggestions? Think outside your jewellery box and prepare for brilliance with our expert roundup of bejewelled faves.

Serious studs

Van Cleef & Arpels Fleurette Earrings

“Diamond earrings are a timeless piece that will not only accompany you throughout your life but can also be passed on to the next generation.” – Nicolas Bos, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels

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A good luck charm

Hermès Planètes Ring

A signature piece that you can wear with anything will not only be a great investment but is destined to become your personal trademark.

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Eye-catching earrings

Mejuri Pyra Drop Earrings

“Dangling earrings can take any outfit to the next level with the way they fill up negative space, especially when you have your hair up.” – Justine Lançon

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Quintessential cable bracelets

Tiffany Forge Medium Link Bracelet with the David Yurman Sculpted Cable Bangle Bracelet

“A mix of metals brings so much energy to an outfit and creates endless styling possibilities.” – Justine Lançon

Shop Tiffany & Co. Now

Shop David Yurman Now

Perfect pearls

Melanie Auld Amavi Pearl Necklace

“Pearls have this natural glow that can light up your face — just like when you finally find the perfect foundation.” – Leah Alexandra

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Tried-and-true hoops

Leah Alexandra Emerald and Diamond Pavé U Hoops

Non-round hoop shapes tend to be incredibly flattering. A lavish gem-encrusted version will do double duty for special events.

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A VIP necklace

Swarovski Millenia Necklace

Start with a collar-length necklace and then continue to incorporate longer pieces, which can be layered and complement various necklines.

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A stylish signet ring

Sophie Buhai Walter Ring

“Signet rings automatically give you that feeling of a gender-neutral heirloom because they’ve been used so much throughout history. I love them as pinky rings.” – Leah Alexandra

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This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2024 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Expert Tips for Curating Your Perfect Jewellery Wardrobe appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Marni has just dropped an Ssense exclusive titled ‘Once Upon a Time at Marni,’ and it might just be the cure for the winter blues. Filled with whimsy, boasting personality and offering a hefty dose of dopamine, the 35-piece unisex capsule is made up of bright hues, luxe faux furs and funky patchwork prints.

Our top picks? The multicolour cardigan and reimagined Tropicalia bag. Shop the exclusive now on ssense.com and the Ssense mobile app.

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Louis Vuitton arrives at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver

Louis Vuitton has opened a new shopping hub that doubles as a ritzy travel destination. Set within the landmark Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, the store offers men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories and timepieces, plus access to bespoke luxury through the personalization of leather goods and the engraving of fragrance vessels.

But the oohs and aahs don’t end there. Architecturally, the store is a masterpiece of carpentry and features a grand circular staircase linking the first and second floors. You’ll also find fine art curated from around the globe at every turn. *Checks flights to Vancouver.*

Mejuri launches member-exclusive lab-grown diamonds

Hot off the heels of its lab-grown sapphire launch, Mejuri is introducing lab-grown diamonds to its roster of wearable jewels. Available exclusively for Mejuri+ members, the collection is launching with a necklace, bracelet and studs, each offered in yellow or white gold with two different carat options.

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Arc’teryx reopens its Yorkdale store

As the wise say, when one door closes another one opens. Such is true of outdoorsy brand Arc’teryx, whose new store in Toronto’s Yorkdale Shopping Centre is a grand step up from its original mall location. The space scales an impressive 2,043 square feet of retail space and brings the outside indoors with a digital display mimicking large-scale mountains — a nod to the brand’s Canadian roots.

The new shop features a wide assortment of high-performance products pertaining to running, climbing, hiking, snow sports (all tested in the harshest of environments, as Arc-teryx does), as well as lifestyle clothing, shoes and accessories.

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Gucci opens a new Calgary location

Gucci is expanding its retail footprint in Canada with a new Calgary boutique. Another mammoth (this one sized at 2,700 square feet), the shop carries an expansive selection of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, small leather goods and handbags, accessories, shoes, jewellery and travel items.

Located on 8th Avenue inside Holt Renfrew, this is the only Gucci store in all of Calgary. Be sure to check out if you ever find yourself in Alberta’s up-and-coming fashion mecca.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Marni Drops an Ssense Exclusive + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Want a peek into the future? Pinterest Predicts 2024 has just been released and it’s got the scoop on emerging trends.

For starters, bows aren’t going anywhere, as they’ll continue to adorn outfits, shoes, hairstyles and jewellery, just the same as silver and chrome, which have steadily been making their way into the mainstream. Grandmacore will morph into “Eclectic Grandpa,” more people will use scraps and shreds to make zero-waste projects, and a retro jazz aesthetic will ascend out of pretty much nowhere. What’s more, a little birdie told us that badminton will be the activity du jour, even for the pickleball-obsessed.

But Pinterest isn’t just taking a guess and hoping for the best, nor is their office filled with fortune tellers. Thanks to the 482 million people using Pinterest to plan their whole lives (you know, that new home reno project, an upcoming vacation, the dream wedding), Pinterest has unique insight into the future and can tell what’s about to take off before it does. So dive in and get an inspiring head start on 2024.

Canada Goose announces a multi-year partnership with Giants of Africa

Aside from recently releasing new collections with Bape, OVO and Concepts, Canada Goose is celebrating the kickoff to a multi-year partnership with Giants of Africa (GOA), a non-profit youth basketball organisation co-founded by Toronto Raptors vice-chairman and president Masai Ujiri. Committed to fostering community and limitless belief while empowering African youth, GOA runs camps, builds courts and focuses on positive engagement in the local neighbourhoods within which they work.

To launch the partnership and honour GOA’s critical work, Canada Goose and GOA have collaborated on the limited-edition Crofton Vest, with 100 per cent of the proceeds from sales going to GOA. And that’s just the teaser; the full Fall 2024 capsule collection will launch in the spring. Watch this space.

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Cult Gaia and Grand Azur dream up some cool shades

 

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Take drab winter dressing up a notch with a wonderful pair of sunglasses. May we suggest the newest on the market, a collaboration between Cult Gaia and eyewear label Grand Azur?

The unique collection features four sustainable styles each priced at $555 CAD. Take those angel numbers as a sign that it was meant to be.

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Stella McCartney creates a capsule with artist Hajime Sorayama

Stella McCartney and celebrated Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama are working together for a second time to create a little Spring 2024 magic. Their limited-edition capsule blends fashion and art to send a powerful message of sustainability and strength. It’s genderless, ageless and effortless to boot.

But the real pièce de résistance in the collection is a new artwork Sorayama created exclusively for this project — a Vitruvian Woman, reimagined with Stella’s face.

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Brunette the Label pops up at Holts in Vancouver

Calling all west coasters. Vancouver-based Brunette the Label has set up shop in the Pacific Centre’s Holt Renfrew, giving you immediate access to its latest collections. From holiday getups to cozy knitwear, the pop-up has everything you need for this month’s festivities.

Act fast, as it’s only running until December 21. For anyone not in the area, the loungewear and lifestyle brand can still be shopped online.

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Vitaly releases a collection with Rico Nasty

American singer and rapper Rico Nasty has added her eclectic style to Vitaly’s boutiques. The limited three-piece drop features a heavy duty “nasty” chain, a promise ring (very tongue in cheek) and a pink and silver charm necklace.

“I was inspired by the duality of hard and soft,” shares Rico Nasty in a press release. “This collab with Vitaly means the world to me because they gave me creative freedom and allowed me to make what I wanted. [It] is all about being multifaceted, beautiful and hardcore.”

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This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Pinterest Predicts the Top 2024 + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

However, the past decade or so has seen an unassailable shift. All of the magic and alchemy that creates diamonds within the earth’s mantle — where millennia of heat and pressure turn pure carbon into the world’s hardest naturally occurring material — can now be rapidly replicated, sometimes in a matter of weeks, in the form of lab-grown diamonds.

“Now, we’re seeing some companies with 80 per cent of their sales being in lab diamonds, when only five years ago, their business was 100 per cent natural diamonds,” says Donald A. Palmieri, an NYC-based industry expert and gemologist and the founder of Palmieri’s Market Monitor, a monthly trade compendium that publishes wholesale and auction gemstone market prices.

What’s old is new again

To be clear, lab diamonds have been around for quite a while — they first materialized in the 1950s but were mostly used for scientific purposes until recent years, when the consistency of their quality dramatically increased as their manufacturing costs simultaneously decreased, an ideal combination that left them primed for a major expansion into the consumer market.

Now, industry heavy hitters, including De Beers, Signet (which owns major brands such as Peoples and Blue Nile) and celebrity jeweller and Cartier-family descendant Jean Dousset (who has designed engagement rings for the likes of Amy Adams and Paris Hilton), have invested in the stones, which, not to be confused with diamond alternatives such as moissanites, are chemically and physically identical to natural diamonds. So no one can tell if your latest jaw-dropping bauble is a lab diamond or a natural diamond; in fact, only a gemological laboratory can identify them beyond a doubt.

“The industry has really taken a turn in the past 12 months, now that the natural-diamond market has lost its ultimate hold on engagement-ring sales; if a consumer is happy to accept a lab diamond for their engagement ring, they’ll also be happy to buy lab diamonds for every other piece of jewellery,” says Palmieri, who explains that it was only a few short years ago that the natural-diamond market saw a rare upsurge — during the pandemic, when consumers were busily spending an unexpected surplus of cash online.

With this swell in demand, natural-diamond prices actually went up — a potentially dangerous boom, it turns out, in the wake of the rise of readily available lab diamonds, which are currently selling wholesale at a mere fraction of the price of natural diamonds. In reality, diamonds, while precious and beautiful no matter what their price, have never been one of the rarest gems, and hence their relationship with the economic model of supply and demand is complex and hard to predict.

To (re)sell or not to sell…

While the prices of both lab and natural diamonds have experienced a record decline this year, the latter maintain their value in a way that lab diamonds have yet to prove in the secondary market — meaning that it’s always been possible to resell them, including on consignment or at public auction — a market that only continues to grow in popularity.

Just ask fans such as Drake and Kim K, who have both purchased high-profile jewels at auction, including those gems previously owned by Pharrell Williams and Tupac, in Drake’s case, and by Princess Diana, in Kim K’s case. (Tupac’s custom-made ruby and diamond ring alone set a record-breaking price for a hip-hop artifact of nearly $1,350,000.) On the flip side, the relative newness of lab diamonds, and their changing prices, means that a resale market may never materialize in quite the same way.

“Trends come and go, and the market may go up and down, but pieces from big historic houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Tiffany continue to hold cachet,” says Kristin Kearney, director of Bonhams Canada. “People are always looking for those pieces, especially because they’re so well made.”

Kearney notes that truly rare coloured diamonds, such as fancy pinks and blues, and antique gems found in jewels from the perennially popular art deco and Edwardian periods are also considered marquee pieces that will often sustain and even increase in value over time. “Scarcity plays such a role in value, especially when it comes to antique cuts, like old mine-cut diamonds,” she says. “They have an extra appeal — an extra little sparkle that comes with a bit of a story. That’s what will always make them special.”

Size can be everything

In reality, antique cuts or the idea of natural diamonds being an ancient phenomenon may not resonate with everyone, especially those who have their heart set solely on a jaw-dropping Jennifer Lopez-worthy rock. In that vein, choosing a lab diamond with impeccable quality for a much more competitive price can be ideal for those who simply appreciate the unique beauty any diamond possesses — its striking and undeniable fire, scintillation and brilliance — regardless of whether it’s been sourced from the earth or is man-made.

After all, lab diamonds have already become a mainstay on the red carpet, worn by the likes of Rihanna, Billy Porter and Zendaya. Plus, for a piece that may require a plethora of diamonds, such as a timeless tennis necklace, more economical lab diamonds might just fit the bill.

Diamonds being more accessible in general is an idea that’s struck a chord with Danish brand Pandora, who decided to introduce its first lab diamonds in 2021 as a way of offering the gem to consumers who may have never considered such a luxurious purchase in the past.

“We are seeing a very broad interest in both existing and brand-new clients,” says Mary Carmen Gasco-Buisson, chief marketing officer for Pandora, which exclusively selects highly graded stones with VS clarity when sourcing lab-grown diamonds. “They love being able to add diamonds to their collection or even purchase a bigger diamond than they might have been able to before. Now we can make really high-quality jewellery accessible to everyone.”

Any diamond is forever

If you’re ultimately undecided on whether lab or natural diamonds are for you, Kearney says the first step is to consider your budget and define your priorities, including what will matter most in terms of size, quality and the idea of reselling in the future. Then, do your research: Go in person to a reputable dealer, a jewellery store or an auction house and try things on to consider the differences for yourself.

“It’s so important to shop for these special pieces in person because that’s ultimately how you’ll enjoy them,” Kearney advises. “Sometimes when we’re online, there’s so much information at our fingertips that it can be difficult to wade through the propaganda to determine what’s what.”

For example, take the controversial question of whether lab-grown diamonds are actually more environmentally friendly than those that have been mined. While many are eager to make claims for one side or the other, the reality is that it’s far too early to get a clear picture or form an educated opinion on a professed ideal, given the lack of timely research in an industry that includes strict government-enforced environmental guidelines, ethical mines, newly formed factories running around the clock on fossil fuels and carbon-footprint awareness at all levels.

It’s worth noting, however, that any piece of jewellery can be considered one of the most sustainable purchases you can make due to its imperishable nature and nearly infinite recyclability. Regardless of a fluctuating market or long-term predictions, all jewels are forever and can be adored for not only a lifetime but also many generations to come — a unique and shining quality that adds immeasurable value.

Get your glam on courtesy of these natural- and lab-grown-diamond showstoppers.

Pandora Era Bezel Lab-grown Diamond Stud Earrings

Jeweller: Pandora
Product details: 0.50 carat lab­grown diamond and 14 karat gold earrings
Price: $940

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Vrai Infinity Linked Tennis Bracelet

Jeweller: Vrai
Product details: 1.70 carats of lab­grown diamonds and 14 karat white gold bracelet
Price: $3,945

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Louis Vuitton Blossom Open Ring

Jeweller: Louis Vuitton
Product details: 0.33 carats of diamonds and 18 karat white gold ring
Price: $8,400

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Cartier Juste un Clou Necklace

Jeweller: Cartier
Product details: 0.12 carats of diamonds and 18 karat white gold necklace
Price: $6,450

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Chanel Bouton de Camélia Ring

Jeweller: Chanel
Product details: 0.39 carats of diamonds and 18 karat white gold ring
Price: Price upon request

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Anabela Chan Multi-Stone Earrings

Jeweller and retailer: Anabela Chan at Moda Operandi
Product details: Lab­grown diamond and 18 karat white and yellow gold vermeil earrings
Price: $4,970

Shop Similar Items

Jessica McCormack Arbor Knot Bangle

Jeweller: Jessica McCormack
Product details: 2.50 carat diamond and 18 karat yellow gold bangle
Price: Price upon request

Shop Now

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2024 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post The Lab-Grown vs. Natural Diamonds Debate appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Now 56, Rockmore tells the story to her 1.3 million TikTok followers as she dons her wedding outfit circa 2000 — a sparkly pink BCBG Max Azria dress, vintage acrylic wedge heels, a Vera Wang-inspired crystal bouquet and, of course, the bracelet. Then she slips a jean jacket on over the dress and trades out the iridescent posy for a pale-blue clutch. “You are my Carrie Bradshaw,” the top comment reads.

It’s not hard to see why her followers liken her to the Sex and the City character. Honey-coloured curls aside, Rockmore shares Bradshaw’s fondness for finery. Inside her two-storey closet in her home in Dallas is a collection of clothing and accessories that pays homage to her decades-long love affair with fashion. Her assortment of “baubles and bangles,” as she calls them, has its own dedicated wall. The sparkly hoard comprises vintage and designer pieces, some dating back to the ’50s — including her most treasured piece: her mother’s seven-strand pearl choker. And for the past three years, she’s been letting the world into her vast wardrobe via social media, earning her a nomination for the 2023 CAFA Digital Fashion Creator of the Year Award.

Montreal-born Rockmore worked as a clothing designer for most of her career before transitioning to jewellery in 2007. In March 2020, she was in Jaipur, India, working on her semi-precious-jewellery collection, when COVID-19 sent her back stateside. In need of a creative outlet, she began producing styling videos with the help of her tech-savvy Gen Z daughter.

The rest, as they say, is history — or her story. Rockmore’s followers tune in for her sage sartorial advice, like how to style a denim maxi-skirt or buy vintage. As per her TikTok bio, the designer celebrates the “self-expression of 50+.” But her joie de vivre approach to dressing appeals to an ageless audience that ranges from Gen Z to Gen X.

Here, Rockmore discusses her love of jewellery, winter styling tips, her eponymous brand and more.

You’ve said jewellery is “where true individual style is expressed.” What do you mean by that?

“Jewellery pieces are little sculptures, and that means they’re art. One person sees an 18th-century painting and falls in love with it, and another person wants a Jackson Pollock. That’s how I see the embellishment of accessories. It becomes a personal journey and an expression of your inner self.”

What is inspiring you these days?

“The late ’60s and early ’70s have always been an inspiration to me. The glam of that era was coinciding with a lot of political unrest in the U.S. at that time, and I find the juxtaposition of those two worlds very interesting.”

You’ve mentioned before — in one of your videos — that it seems to be that as women age, we become “invisible.” Do you think jewellery can make us feel less invisible?

“Absolutely. I mean, who doesn’t love a statement necklace? Jewellery becomes a talisman of who you are. When you’re younger, you might not know as readily who you actually are, but by the time you hit middle age, you’re more confident so you’ll experiment more with bigger pieces.”

Are there any “rules” that you follow for styling jewellery?

“I don’t like to load up on too many pieces at one time unless there’s a very specific reason for it. I like balance and will load up till the cows come home if it’s right. I will wear five chokers in one look if it lends itself to the balance of the entire thing.”

Any tips for winter jewellery styling?

“If you have an event, play around with your earrings. You may need a stud rather than a dangle. It’s all about balance and the look you’re trying to create. The thing about jewellery is, load it up and then look in the mirror and decide if it feels right to you. There aren’t any steadfast rules. But if you have this little inkling that it’s too much, it probably is — take a piece off.”

How has your style changed from when you were in your 20s?

“My style has not changed. Is that scary? I’ve always loved an army pant, a platform shoe, a paper-bag waist, boho. At the same time, I absolutely adore stark minimalism. I just don’t dress the same every day. I don’t put myself into a box.”

You told Vogue in 2021 that you want to buy pieces you can pass down to loved ones. Can you expand on that and how it influences what you choose to buy?

“It definitely influences what I choose to buy lately because of Ivy’s transition. [Rockmore’s daughter Ivy came out as transgender in 2022.] All of a sudden, I have somebody to pass my jewellery down to. At the end of the day, if you’re going to buy something to pass down but it’s not your favourite piece, don’t buy it. Buy things that you love first, and then consider passing them down later on. Enjoy them for what they bring to you.”

You’ve lived in Montreal, Toronto, Europe and now Dallas. How has living in these different places influenced your style?

“I’m always influenced by what I see visually. I’m like a sponge that way. I’m really interested in the way that other people put themselves together. I find it beautiful to notice other people’s style. That’s the one area where I’ve felt a little sad about moving to Dallas — it’s not a walking city, and every other city I’ve lived in is a walking city. It was easy in Montreal to see creativity walking down the street, whereas Dallas is more event-driven so you don’t see as much activity on the streets. But what’s really interesting about Dallas versus other places is the southern charm. Women compliment one another up and down 24/7 here. I find that beautifully inspiring.”

Below, Carla Rockmore’s favourite friend-worthy gifts (which you might just want to keep for yourself).

1/6

Carla Rockmore Victorian Goddess Earring

Victorian Goddess Earring

($132, Carla Rockmore)

Buy Now

2/6

L’or de Seraphine Belvedere Candle

Belvedere Candle

($66, L'or de Seraphine)

Buy Now

3/6

Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask

The Kissu Lip Mask

($39, Tatcha)

Buy Now

4/6

A.P.C. Ninon Small Drawstring Bag

Ninon Small Drawstring Bag

($261, A.P.C.)

Buy Now

5/6

Carla Rockmore Stretch Cushion Resin Bracelet

Stretch Cushion Resin Bracelet

($132, Carla Rockmore)

Buy Now

6/6

Slip Caramel Sleep Mask

Caramel Sleep Mask

($70, Slip)

Buy Now

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2024 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Carla Rockmore Is Showing Us How to Have Fun With Fashion appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

British designer Anya Hindmarch has put her cheeky spin on signature Uniqlo LifeWear items. For their first-ever collaboration, creativity and craftsmanship — and a healthy sense of humour — come together across a selection of classic knit silhouettes in lambswool and cashmere.

Expect to see some googly eyes, as well as contrasting stitches, external seams and muted colourways.

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Indigenous Fashion Arts comes to the ROM

Need another reason to visit Toronto’s Royal Ontario Museum? They’re hosting a pop-up shop in collaboration with Indigenous Fashion Arts (IFA) from now until February 9, 2024. Featuring 10 Indigenous artisans, the space will house everything from clothing and accessories to home accessories. Holiday shopping, made easy!

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&Or introduces new sustainable essentials

If you want to remove the puzzling task of choosing an outfit (we aren’t suggesting nudity — keep reading), consider a capsule wardrobe. What’s that? A closet filled with hero pieces that have cross-seasonal wear and mix-and-match potential.

Tech-led clothier &Or is making capsule dressing a total breeze with new additions to its “anyplace essentials.” Including a bomber that transforms into a vest, a shacket and cool trousers, there are endless styling possibilities. What’s more, the three new additions are made with 100 per cent RWS-certified merino wool for warm yet breathable comfort.

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Tiffany & Co. unveils The Crest home collection

Looking for bone china to spruce up the table spread? Lauren Santo Domingo, Tiffany & Co.’s home category artistic director, has dreamed up a timeless offering of plates, teacups, flatware and linens that subtly nod to the storied history of Tiffany & Co. and are the kind of items you pass on to your kids.

Aptly named Tiffany Crest, the dinnerware collection is embellished with a unique coat of arms featuring recognizable hues like the New York City flag colours and special symbols like Jean Schlumberger’s iconic Bird on a Rock.

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You can now shop Chanel eyewear online

Chanel just made it easier to shop. The French fashion house has unveiled its first eyewear e-commerce platform in Canada and it is filled with all of its most dreamy styles.

Looking for a winged cat-eye with Audrey Hepburn appeal? Or how about an obscure, camellia-shaped frame? Right this way, fashionista.

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Club Monaco reissues a ’90s best-seller

Things were simpler in the ’90s, no? (This assumption is based on my own pure speculation.) Trainers with tube socks made sense together, crewnecks were cool and quiet luxury didn’t need to be named to be understood — which is why Club Monaco’s iconic heritage sweatshirt, known as the Crest, was a bona fide It item throughout that decade.

Now, given kthe current zeitgeist’s appetite for retro flare, Club Monaco has brought back the Crest. It is available alongside an expanded offering of similar, varsity-like pieces, which are all available in a unisex fit. Act fast as this is sure to sell out.

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Smash + Tess collaborates with Paris Jewellers

The perfect statement piece needn’t always be zebra print or full of feathers. It can be as simple as an elevated everyday hoop earring, like this new chain-link style co-designed by Paris Jewellers and Smash + Tess.

Available in silver and gold, they’re versatile, chic and perfect for wrapping up this holiday season.

Shop Now

With files from Annika Lautens

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Anya Hindmarch Designs for Uniqlo + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Bernadette Morra, editor-in-chief

Cat Janiga Via Lactea Tassel Stud

“These 22 karat gold plated tassels can be removed from the labradorite studs, making these meteor-inspired shoulder dusters extremely versatile.”

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Cyntia Miglio Red Jasper Hoya Ring with a Diamond

“Jasper is said to give a sense of wellbeing — certainly something needed in such turbulent times. This red jasper ring is perfect for the holidays.”

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George Antonopoulos, creative & fashion director

Steff Eleoff Squiggle ring

“The sustainably made sterling silver Squiggle ring resembles melting metal and looks like a piece of contemporary art.”

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Scyla Boyer Rise Earrings

“Scyla Boyer’s 18 karat gold plated drops are wearable sculptures inspired by the magic of the sun.”

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Annika Lautens, fashion news director

Omi Woods The Wave Sculptural Cuff Bracelet

“Mark my words: The cuff is coming back! Take your cues from Saint Laurent and wear this sculptural bracelet by Omi Woods over your gloves to elevate your winter ensemble.”

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Jenny Bird Supernova Ring

“I’m so into silver right now, and I love the idea of pairing this statement ring with a white tee, jeans and a blazer. It’s a great way to add a little oomph to your everyday outfit.”

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Jennifer Berry, digital director

Biko Nicola Studs

“After being a gold girlie for years, I’m officially in my silver era — and I’m not looking back. With their sculptural curves, these oversized earrings feel so fresh in the polished metal.”

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Melanie Auld Classic Tennis Necklace

“The tennis-necklace trend is showing no signs of slowing down, and this luxe-looking option gives just the right amount of rich-mom energy at a palatable price.”

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Natalie Michie, social media/market editor

Olaeda The Zodiac Medallion GF

“Personalize your accessorizing game with this dainty gold zodiac medallion. With its thoughtful engraving and lightweight feel, it’s an easy addition to any layering stack.”

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Vitaly Playne ring

“Designed to be part of your everyday-jewellery wardrobe, this stainless steel ring is a subtle, edgy adornment. Its industrial bar lies flat on the finger, giving a minimal and statement-making effect.”

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This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2024 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post This Season’s Top Jewellery Picks, According to <em>FASHION</em>’s Editors appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

“Hyperpigmentation is any deviation from your baseline,” says Dr. Renée A. Beach, founder of Toronto’s DermAtelier on Avenue. “Skin gets injured, and melanocytes — melanin-producing cells in the bottom layer of the epidermis — go into an overdrive response, where they produce more colour.” From a breakout to a bug bite, anything that causes inflammation or irritation can trigger the development of dark spots, which are notoriously hard to get rid of, especially for those with melanin-rich skin.

“Melanin is a factor in everyone’s complexion,” says Beach. “It determines the pigmentation on our face, around our nail beds, in our lips and in our hair.” But there are different pigmentation types and ratios found in lighter and darker skin tones. And that factor impacts the epidermis in a few ways, including how breakouts heal. My dark-spot-riddled complexion was a major blow to my self-esteem at a time when I was meant to be enjoying farewell visits with friends and family and snapping memories along the way. Today, my confidence has recovered but my skin hasn’t; the evidence of that trying time still lingers via post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

It’s an epidermal experience that Eadem co-founder Alice Lin Glover knows well. Before starting the brand with Marie Kouadio Amouzame (who was born in West Africa and raised in France and lives in Brooklyn), the California-based Taiwanese-American grappled with cystic acne and eczema — two skin conditions that can result in hyperpigmentation. She relied heavily on hydroquinone (an ingredient that inhibits melanin production) for treatment, until she discovered it was banned in several countries due to unwanted side effects. “The more I looked into the ingredients behind the beauty products I was using, the more I was convinced there was a need for safe, targeted products for melanin-rich skin,” she says.

When Eadem launched in 2021 with Milk Marvel Dark Spot Serum, it introduced its Smart Melanin Beauty formulation philosophy to the world. “It fuses science-backed ingredients and heritage botanicals to care for melanated skin in a way that’s effective yet gentle,” says Amouzame. Beyond formulating all of their products from scratch, alongside a chemist and dermatologist — both of whom are also women of colour — Eadem’s co-founders are committed to diverse product trials. “We discovered that most of the skincare formulas on the market aren’t actually tested on every skin tone — especially not on darker tones,” says Amouzame.

Upon learning that darker skin is often not factored into skincare research, Cameroon-born, Normandy-raised Noelly Michoux set out to democratize skincare research and development. To do so, her topical brand, 4.5.6 Skin (which was co-founded by a dermatologist and scientist of colour and named one of the most innovative beauty companies of 2023 by Fast Company), built the world’s first Skin Tone Research Lab in France. The lab tests, develops and manufactures its products made for phototypes IV, V and VI on the Fitzpatrick scale. A long-standing dermatological tool with a problematic past — initially, it addressed only Caucasian skin — the scale was designed to assess phototherapy exposure for skin tones. It ranges from type I (a very fair skin tone that “always burns”) through type VI (a deep skin tone that “never burns”). Through a sweeping scope of research that includes genetics, metabolism and psychology, 4.5.6 Skin is unearthing the differences in skin tones and developing formulas that help fade dark spots, increase hydration and calm sensitive, melanated skin.

Bringing together research and diversity is also the goal at L.A.-based Sula Labs. After being faced with a lack of representation in the R&D stages of beauty product development and propelled by a research grant for a project that blended social justice and STEM, cosmetic chemist AJ Addae founded her Black-owned cosmetic formulation and testing company in 2021. Driven by a “for us, by us” promise, Sula Labs dedicates the majority of its portfolio to Black-owned brands. Collaborations with on-the-rise indie lines, such as Of Other Worlds and Range Beauty, are just a few of the lab’s success stories to date. Through her growing team of young, and predominantly Black, scientists, Addae offers a range of services, including product development and efficacy testing, that aim to involve people with darker skin tones in the formulation stage of a product rather than featuring only diverse skin tones in advertising campaigns once a product has already launched. After all, inclusivity is needed in every step of the process.

Whether it’s being driven by founders or formulators, this growing category is leading to significant change that better supports brown and Black complexions. Along with game-changing brands Eadem and 4.5.6 Skin, skincare lines Melyon (a Black-owned Swedish botanical brand) and Lion Pose (which boasts actor and producer Mindy Kaling as an investor and ambassador) now ship to Canada, providing more options and research-backed formulations for people of colour. Beach is optimistic about what this burgeoning beauty category can deliver: “I’m excited about the mission of these new product lines, which is to improve skin tones in a more diverse way.”

Below, four hero products that have been formulated with melanin-rich skin in mind.

Eadem Milk Marvel Dark Spot Serum

This fragrance-free serum boasts a blend of niacinamide, licorice-root extract and encapsulated vitamin C that helps fade hyperpigmentation and minimize the look of pores.

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4.5.6 Skin Green Bae Clarifying Cleansing Gel

Ideal for oily, combination and acne-prone skin, this purifying gel cleanser is made with salicylic acid to balance sebum plus hemp oil and orange-blossom water to decrease inflammation.

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Melyon Day Cream

Made with vegan ingredients, such as baobab oil and aloe vera, this soothing cream is rich in vitamins B, C and E and hydrates skin while protecting it from free radicals and pollution.

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Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum

Loaded with 15 per cent acids, such as azelaic, glycolic, lactic and tranexamic, this resurfacing treatment visibly reduces hyperpigmentation and was clinically tested on Fitzpatrick skin types II to VI.

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This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2024 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Meet the Skincare Pros Formulating Products for Melanin-Rich Skin appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Nothing is quite as covetable as a Louis Vuitton travel trunk, thanks to its timeless leather structure and iconic monogram print. Nine times out of 10, heads do turn. But if you’re a maximalist, Louis Vuitton has reimagined its travel wares in seven flashy shades that are ideal for mixing, matching and creating a travel aesthetic that’s true to you. Enter, Colormania.

From the Horizon cabin luggage and Keepall travel bag to the Christopher backpack and passport covers (and more!), the emblematic Monogram Macassar is now finished with trimmings crafted in red, orange, yellow, green, blue, pink and purple leather. If you want to go all out, a handful of these goods are also available in solid hues (pictured above).

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Roots collaborates with Hong Kong-based label Clot

“Go Outside, You’ll Be Glad,” isn’t just a polite way to tell someone to touch grass. It’s the name of Roots’ latest collaboration with Hong Kong-based streetwear label Clot, and it’s making us want to go outside.

The collection, which is available now, was co-designed by Clot’s founder and Vancouver native Edison Chen, and aims to inspire wearers to connect with the outdoors — whether it’s the scenic landscapes of Canada or on the streets of bustling Hong Kong.

Featuring high-quality embroidery and a limited-edition log-inspired Roots x Clot logo, each piece of the capsule has been handcrafted in Canada at the Roots Toronto factory.

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Maguire opens its new store in Toronto

Maguire is celebrating their new Toronto home. The sought-after Canadian shoe label has relocated its Toronto store to the vibrant Queen Street West, a cultural epicentre adored by city folks and out-of-towners alike.

Originally hailing from Montreal, Maguire has fittingly partnered with Montreal-based interior designer Catherine Catherine to design a space that draws inspiration from the concept of homelike comfort. Expect to find surprising colour combinations and a lively spirit, welcoming you in for a unique and cozy shopping experience.

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Jenny Bird and Favorite Daughter collaborate

If there’s one thing you can always count on, it’s the allure of hoop earrings. They bring outfits together with the snap of a clasp. And they can withstand the test of time and fleeting trends. Surely that’s the sentiment of the new Jenny Bird x Favorite Daughter Essential Stack.

Both interested in core wardrobe curation, beloved Toronto jeweller Jenny Bird and womenswear label Favorite Daughter have come together to design a chic curated kit of ear embellishments, with two box sets (one silver, one gold) featuring a pair of hoops and a hand-sculpted ear cuff. Shop the limited-edition sets at jenny-bird.com and shopfavoritedaughter.com.

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Uno and Province of Canada team up for game night

Game night just got a whole lot cozier, thanks to Province of Canada and Uno, who have collaborated on some pretty iconic sweatsuits. Drawing inspiration from the original Uno card deck from the 1970s, the red and black colourways of this 19-piece capsule spark nostalgia and fun.

Mark your calendars: You’ll be able to get your hands on these limited-edition wares as of November 16 on provinceofcanada.com. Plus, with every purchase from the collection — which is designed and manufactured in Canada — Province of Canada is gifting a free mini Uno deck. Score!

Shop on November 16

Joe Fresh and Roxy Earle release a holiday capsule

Roxy Earle is back at it again with her fourth Joe Fresh collection. Replete with glitzy garments including dresses, tops and bottoms, plus statement footwear and accessories, the A Very Roxy Holiday collection sets the tone for all your festive plans this season.

What’s more, the collection features swimwear pieces, just in case your winter break plans involve a plane ticket south.

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Toronto Fashion Incubator opens a holiday pop-up

Toronto Fashion Incubator has made it easy for you to shop local this holiday season. The non-profit organization is hosting a pop-up gifting market within Yorkville Village Shopping Centre on November 9 and 10 (so hurry!), featuring goods from 14 Canadian fashion and jewellery designers.

Whether you’re looking for a luxe knit sweater (Amanda Maria has got you covered) or a minimalist bag for your quiet luxury-loving friend (might we suggest Enya Mond), TFI’s holiday pop-up has something for everyone on your list.

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This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Louis Vuitton Introduces Colourful Luggage + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

According to Dr. Sam Hanna, a Toronto-based dermatologist, it’s not unusual to see an improvement in your skin when you pass on the Prosecco. “Alcohol is a diuretic, so it makes you lose water,” he says. “This can leave you looking dehydrated, with a slight increase in fine lines, sunken eyes and dark circles.” On top of that, impaired judgment can lead to sloppy skincare behaviour, like face-planting into your pillow in full makeup (which puts you at risk for styes and breakouts) or forgetting to apply sunscreen while navigating a brutal hangover the next morning.

If you’re prone to existing conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, acne or spider veins, you can expect them to worsen under the influence, says Amanda Hlatky, founder of Glow Dermal Therapy and Strategy Skin in Vancouver. This is partly due to the increase in matrix metalloproteinases (also known as MMPs), which are enzymes linked to inflammation and photo-aging. “Within 30 minutes of your having a drink, the pH level of your skin is affected,” says Hlatky. This provides an opportunity for bacteria to grow and also causes inflammation, dysregulated sebum production and increased transepidermal water loss.

And the more you drink, the more severe your pre-mature signs of aging may be, a 2019 study from The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology concluded. The study looked at more than 3,000 women from Canada, Australia, the United Kingdom and the United States and found that those who were considered heavy drinkers — that is, having more than eight drinks per week — had increased severity of mid-face volume loss, increased upper-facial and lip lines and more noticeable undereye puffiness.

While other well-documented research has linked alcohol consumption and negative effects on internal organs, long-term drinkers can also be more susceptible to recurrent skin infections and even skin cancers, says Hanna. A 2017 study looked at three different cohorts of women with varying lifestyles and backgrounds and found an association between alcohol intake and invasive melanoma, particularly in areas of the body that are less exposed to UV rays, like the torso and the back.

Even the occasional tipple is losing steam. Many Canadians were shocked to learn about the updated recommendations from the Canadian Centre on Substance Use and Addiction in January 2023, which stated that no amount of alcohol is safe and suggested limiting consumption to no more than two drinks per week. When buzzwords like “moderation” and “balance” are everywhere, the thought of cutting booze out entirely can feel impossible and — pun intended — like an absolute buzzkill. “For many people, alcohol signifies fun and acts as a social lubricant,” says Hlatky. “Some might fear that giving up alcohol would be giving up connection.” In the world of remote work and social media indulgence, true IRL connection is already on shaky ground, so it can feel especially hard to imagine giving up happy hour.

If quitting alcohol entirely isn’t in the cards for you (now or ever), consider a few things you can do to support better skin health. Drinking water while you’re drinking alcohol can reduce both dehydration and the volume of alcohol consumed, says Hanna. Making sure to cleanse before you face-plant is also crucial, says celebrity facialist and aesthetician Vee Mistry of SkinByVee. “Do not go to bed with that night’s enjoyment on your face,” she says. Also, limit any type of physical or chemical exfoliation. “Your skin is already traumatized; it cannot handle more trauma.”

Mistry recommends focusing any treatments on calming the vasodilation and puffiness by using cool water and deep facial massage. And keep the gentle nourishing train going by applying creamy masks you can sleep in so they work in tandem with your body’s natural state of rejuvenation. For in-office procedures, Hlatky loves oxygen treatments to restore hydration and ClearSilk and IPL lasers to reduce redness and boost collagen production.

Though the compliments about my skin continue to roll in, one year after my last drink, I’m still occasionally hypnotized by the beauty of a chilled glass of wine. But at my next bar hop, I’ll be motivated to order a mocktail, knowing that the dewy, condensation-covered glass has nothing on the glow of my complexion.

Ahead, skin boosters to neutralize the effects of an overindulgent night.

Rhode Glazing Milk

Rhode Glazing Milk is a ceramide-infused glow-giving essence that restores skin’s moisture barrier while teeing up for the next step.

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Weleda Skin Food Face Care Nourishing Oil-to-Milk Cleanser

Weleda Skin Food Face Care Nourishing Oil-to-Milk Cleanser makes end-of-night makeup removal a comfy experience by maintaining moisture levels.

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Drunk Elephant B-Goldi Bright Drops

Drunk Elephant B-Goldi Bright Drops combine 5 per cent niacinamide and diglucosyl gallic acid to boost radiance and light-reflecting pigments to revive dull skin the next morning.

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Charlotte Tilbury Magic Hydrator Mist

Charlotte Tilbury Magic Hydrator Mist provides an instant dewy finish via Japanese kombu, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.

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U Beauty The Barrier Bioactive Treatment

U Beauty The Barrier Bioactive Treatment is a plushy, hard-working gel that boosts cellular renewal and improves the moisture barrier while you snooze.

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SkinByVee Gua Sha Cyro Sticks

SkinByVee Gua Sha Cyro Sticks reduce inflammation and puffiness while inducing an overall feeling of calm.

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This article first appeared in FASHION’s November 2023 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Here’s What a Boozy Night Out Does to Your Skin appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

The British-born Ghanaian designer says she owes her sustainable mindset to her mom, who favoured a good bargain over fashion fads. “I was never on trend,” Kuadey jokes. When her peers were changing out their antiquated articles for whatever was in vogue, a young Kuadey was extending the life of her wardrobe with DIY projects. “It taught me to create my own niche of dressing,” she says.

But she never dreamed of one day constructing her own clothes. As a teenager in England, Kuadey desired to study architecture stateside. However, after she had applied unsuccessfully to a number of schools, her American aspirations fell through and she made the move to Canada to pursue a degree in civil engineering.

The designer’s reintroduction to fashion came in 2012, when Kuadey and her parents travelled to Ghana after her brother’s sudden passing. There, she spent most of her days with her “auntie,” who taught her the basics of pattern drafting and sewing. What was once a peripheral interest in the craft soon became a passion project. “It ignited this spark in me,” she says.

Years later, that spark would inspire the designer to quit her civil engineering job in Calgary to study fashion at George Brown College in Toronto. After graduating, Kuadey launched Israella Kobla — “Israella” being her middle name and “Kobla” being her late brother’s — in July 2019. The brand’s first collection, Freed From Captivity, debuted that fall at Vancouver Fashion Week. And in March 2021, Kuadey began a fruitful online partnership with Hudson’s Bay that has since expanded to include in-store boutiques.

“I never wanted to have that ‘What if,’” she says. “And now I’m in so deep, there’s no turning back. I’m solidly in the fashion industry now.”

Here, the designer shares what inspires her work and the legacy she hopes to leave behind.

Architecture

“Architecture and engineering both influence me — not on a day-to-day basis but in my approach to the brand’s aesthetic. I love a lot of angles, straight triangles and things like that.”

England

“There are so many fashionable people in the U.K., but everyone finds a way to personalize their style and make a look their own. That has been a guiding light for me, as I always try to make sure our pieces don’t just look the same as what everyone else is making.”

Ghana

“My approach to designing and the personalization we bring to our customer service is influenced by the artisanal culture that is prevalent in Ghana. It’s so common for people to go to their local tailor or seamstress when they have a special occasion to get a custom outfit made to measure.”

Longevity

“I want Israella Kobla pieces to be your go-to statement items, whether it’s two years from now or five years. I never want something to lose its relevance.”

Family

“Honouring my brother is something that I always keep in the forefront of my mind — it’s an overarching inspiration for everything I do. Having that is like my North Star.”

This article first appeared in FASHION’s November 2023 issue. Find out more here.

The post Get to Know the Designer Behind Toronto-Based Label Israella Kobla appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Body language

The ear is just one of the body parts — along with eyes, noses, fingers and faces — that pop up regularly in surrealist jewellery. They populate the Freudian dream world and repressed subconscious that Salvador Dalí — an avid Schiaparelli collaborator — and other surrealist artists plundered freely for inspiration. Dalí’s “Ruby Lips” brooch, for instance, is an open mouth created from 18-karat gold and rubies with cultured pearls as teeth. In 1949, Dalí produced a diamond-encrusted platinum brooch timepiece called “The Eye of Time.” With a Movado watch movement inserted in the iris and a ruby in the corner of the eye, like a tear duct, it was originally created as a gift for Dalí’s wife, Gala.

There is also Jean Cocteau’s blue-eyed brooch with a fake-pearl teardrop designed for Schiaparelli in 1952 and Man Ray’s “The Oculist,” an eye-shaped brooch crafted from 18-karat gold and malachite. Ray’s first piece of jewellery, made from precious metals, was a necklace he designed in 1961 called “La Jolie.” It is the profile of a face modelled after his wife, Juliet, rendered in 24-karat gold with a lapis lazuli eye. And Schiaparelli’s transparent-rhodoid necklace with metal insects from 1938 has the Luis Buñuel effect of bugs crawling across the wearer’s skin and calls to mind nightmares of being covered in creepy-crawlies — a psychoanalyst’s dream.

Free forms

Besides dreams, surrealists sprinkled their works with the themes of chance and accident. They created them using automatism, a technique whereby the artist surrenders all ideas of intention or design and “goes with the flow.” Alexander Calder perfected a kind of stream of consciousness in his mobile-like jewellery, which was often hammered and bent out of pliable metal that spiralled like scribbling in automatic writing. This was pure thought as object or jewellery.

Funny bones

Among the most celebrated pieces of surrealist jewellery is the fur-covered metal bangle that Meret Oppenheim made in 1936 for Schiaparelli. It was a forerunner of her surrealist masterpiece “Déjeuner en fourrure” featuring a fur-covered teacup, saucer and teaspoon. She also made a humorous gold-plated silver ring set not with a precious gem but with a lump of sugar.

Oppenheim’s objects and jewellery are often visual jokes. Sometimes the humour comes from unexpected slippages between boundaries — like the domesticity of her tea set and the savagery of fur or the contrast of an alluring feminine mouth and the skeletal bones surrounding it in a necklace. Noma Copley’s silver necktie and shirt cuffs, the latter of which look like real shirt cuffs, scramble codes, too, by rendering haberdashery — typically textile items — in metal. The result provokes a double take.

Surrealism today

Daniel Roseberry has scooped up this immense surrealist heritage of comedy and psychoanalysis and brought out 21st-century versions of the jewellery freewheeling through Elsa Schiaparelli’s circle in the 1920s and ’30s. The Schiaparelli creative director accessorized his first collection for the house, in 2019, with a green python necklace with red eyes. It’s reminiscent of Dalí’s “Medusa” brooch in 18-karat yellow gold and platinum-plated gold with oval cabochon sapphires, square cabochon rubies and round diamonds. Roseberry has done teeth chokers, gold nose earrings, keyhole earrings and earrings that look like molars. His eyeglasses feature long-lashed eyes or eyeballs that stop you from seeing anything at all. Instead of rings, Schiaparelli fetishists wear long-nailed gold fingertips and giant ear earrings gleaming with primitivist, surreal splendour.

The house’s jewellery gets bigger every season — like the gold-toned resin breastplate necklace of coral-like lungs and, for the Spring 2022 couture collection, the spectacular gold leaf and gem-studded “cage” dress of hand-moulded leather that creates its own runway category: jewellery-to-wear. Other designers playing in the surrealist space include Ileana Makri, Solange Azagury-Partridge and Delfina Delettrez Fendi, who, in addition to having her own surrealist-minded collection, joined Fendi as artistic director of jewellery in 2020.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s November 2023 issue. Find out more here.

The post Surrealist Jewellery Has Entered the Mainstream appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Universal Flowering is part of a new and growing guard of perfume brands that have begun to incorporate unconventional notes into their wares. But the world of fragrance is no stranger to ingredients of unsavoury provenance. Take, for instance, ambergris — harvested from the intestines of a whale — which has been used in perfume since the 10th century. Or civet oil, a secretion derived from the perineal gland of a civet cat that features a mind-controlling parasite called Toxoplasma gondii, which has been used in perfume for hundreds of years. (It was one of the main notes in Chanel No. 5 until the brand switched to a synthetic version in 1998.) But common notes like vanilla, amber and rose are increasingly being replaced by uncanny bouquets of semen, ashes, cocaine, plastic and flesh.

Historically, perfume is based on the premise of covering up unpleasant bodily smells and replacing them with something sweet and seductive. But in recent years, perfume itself has begun to get down and dirty and embrace the downright abject. While Thierry Mugler’s Mugler Cologne, which contains an “S” note widely rumoured to be sperm, launched back in 2001, there is now a profusion of similar scents on the market. Brands like Marlou Paris traffic in the scent of bodily secretions, Wolf Brothers produces animalic scents with names like Bear, Goat and Boar and niche brand Akro bottles the scent of vices like alcohol and cigarettes.

Perfume is about storytelling. Every story has to have contrasting elements of darkness and lightness.

“Back in the day, a little bit of naughtiness was good for balancing a gardenia or a tuberose, but now it has kind of flipped and there’s less floral and more funk,” says Callum Rory Mitchell, the nose behind Perdrisat, an Australian small-batch-perfume brand founded in 2022. For a scent called Fuck Boy, Mitchell was inspired by the acrid chemical smell of cocaine to turn the cloying pina colada scent given off by the typical Australian fuckboy into something a little bit nastier. It wasn’t intended to be louche but, rather, a character sketch of a relentless partygoer. “Perfume is about storytelling,” he says. “Every story has to have contrasting elements of darkness and lightness.”

Despite their use of off-putting ingredients, the perfumers creating these unique scents aren’t aiming for an end product that smells horrific; in fact, it’s quite the opposite. In her landmark essay “The Powers of Horror,” Julia Kristeva notes the fine line between arousal and disgust. The abject “is something rejected from which we do not part.”

The curiosity driving this rank-smelling renaissance is due in part to #PerfumeTok, which opened the floodgates for an entirely new audience to get into the previously insular world of perfume, and in part to the legions of new fans desiring more complexity in their bouquets. “I think people’s noses are getting a little more sophisticated and adventurous in general,” says Alana May Johnson, an L.A.-based librarian and fragrance fan.

Historically, the perfume world, which is expected to grow to $49.2 billion by 2029, has been led by big names like LVMH, Coty and L’Oréal. Now, an increasing market share is being snapped up by a burgeoning wave of niche noses who brew perfume like it’s bathtub gin. Indie perfumers aren’t restricted by the same constraints as their conglomerate counterparts and have the freedom to create scents that are more outré and experimental. “A lot of traditional perfumers will say ‘I grew up in the south of France, surrounded by beautiful flowers.’ Those aren’t my childhood memories. I grew up in Missouri playing with pyrotechnics,” says Mark Sage of Clandestine Laboratories, whose Wendover scent is meant to smell like a “damp basement.”

Ultimately, the role of perfume has shifted from being a normal part of a beauty routine to an artistic medium and a form of self-expression. It’s no longer about smelling sweet; it’s about showing who you are to the world, whether that’s macabre, saccharine or anything in between.

“I like leaning into the stinkier sides of a flower — the parts that are a bit pissy or bodily or sexy — to not just make perfume pretty but make it feel more alive,” says Rafuse. Besides, if we can’t completely rid ourselves of grime, perhaps the next best thing to do is embrace it. Perfumes that contain taboo elements offer us a chance to celebrate our inherent humanity — with all the filth and transcendence contained therein.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s November 2023 issue. Find out more here.

The post Weird Perfumes are Taking Over appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Nowadays when you hear the words Miss Dior, the beloved fragrance comes to mind. Well, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has just introduced a purse by the same name that’s destined to become a fan favourite as well.

Boasting signature Dior quilting, Miss Dior has the poise of its big sister Lady Dior. Its size? Suitable for a no-nonsense night out (read: a wallet, phone and lipstick). As for the finer details, this chic top handle bag comes with a hideaway gold chain for crossbody alternatives and is available in four colourways — pink, yellow, white and black.

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Van Cleef & Arpels releases the Fleurettes in rose gold

Let’s do some creative Christmas-themed girl math. Santa’s reindeer receive some carrots (courtesy of you) in exchange for some carats (courtesy of “Santa.”) They’re basically free.

Perfectly timed with the approaching holidays, Van Cleef & Arpels has launched new additions to the Fleurette Collection, including a necklace, pendant, pair of stud earrings and ring, all in rose gold. A slight departure from the cult-favourite Alhambra, this floral motif inlaid with tiny diamonds will subtly glimmer amidst Champagne bubbles and twinkling party lights come party season.

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Victoria’s Secret drops accessible intimates

 

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Though long overdue, brands are starting to correct their sometimes exclusionary tendencies. Most recently, Victoria’s Secret and Pink have designed (alongside approximately 200 disabled women) adaptive intimates to make their products more accessible. From sensory-friendly fabrics to magnetic closures, this new line of intimates by a fashion industry giant marks a big shift in the accessibility market.

Model Bri Scalesse is the face of this campaign, and shares that this milestone “is an ode to my younger self who never saw a body like hers represented by an intimate apparel brand.”

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Birks unveils a zodiac collection

There is a healthy roster of jewellery brands offering zodiac paraphernalia, but none are doing it like Birks. The label just introduced its new zodiac necklaces — available in 18 karat yellow gold and a dazzling sterling silver — that have been expertly crafted to the highest of quality.

And they’re visually stunning, too. On one side of the medallion, a picture of the zodiac’s symbol pops out from the metal, while on the reverse, the sign’s associated glyph rests, making for a versatile, two-in-one accessory.

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Fashion Art Toronto announces its Fall 2023 showcase

 

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Details for the annual Fashion Art Toronto fall showcase are finally here. From November 16 to 19, Toronto’s longest running multi-arts fashion week will take place at Black Creek Assembly (131 McCormack St), a sprawling industrial warehouse in the city’s Junction neighbourhood.

The immersive and inclusive fashion experience not only features cutting edge runway shows from Canadian designers (including Mr. Haque, Kerotix, Dehmin Osawamick Cleland, to name a few), but it will also house art installations, shopping boutiques and presentations, not to mention a first-ever dance party on the runway where attendees are welcomed to party all night long. More notes and ticket options for the fashion-packed weekend can be found here.

Vitaly launches new eyewear

The days may be getting shorter but that doesn’t mean our beloved sunglasses have to get tucked away. Especially when they’re as fashion forward as Vitaly’s new releases.

Nodding to eras of the past — from a ’90s R&B aesthetic to a sporty Y2K influence — these new eyewear styles are the cherry on top of any outfit, whether you’re strutting through city streets or enjoying the scenic outdoors up north. What’s more, the Toronto-bred label, which was just named Accessories Designer of the Year at this year’s CAFAs, focuses on genderless designs welcoming all to take part in the fun.

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The post Introducing the Miss Dior Bag + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

When I first bought it, I wore it sparingly. It’s the kind of piece that people can’t help but notice, and at the time, I felt this meant they’d notice I was always wearing the same thing. I felt overdressed when I popped into the grocery store. Rather unbelievably, in retrospect, I considered selling the coat during the summer of 2018 because I was worried that it was too big after I tried it on over nothing but a white T-shirt.

That winter, though, I began wearing it more frequently. Almost every time I pulled it on, I got a compliment, and wearing it more frequently, in turn, increased my confidence. Eventually, it became my go-to piece — the topper I turned to every single time it was appropriate to do so. Since 2018, I’ve broken it out in November and worn it almost every day until March. “Love your coat,” a barista would say when my girlfriend and I would grab a coffee. “I’m sorry,” a passerby said as I waited to cross the street, “but that’s a really incredible jacket.” And on my return visit to an art gallery, the gallerist remarked, “Oh, it’s the man with the coat.”

As great as it is, though, I think my Marni coat might soon be getting a companion in my closet because this fall is set to be a golden era for big coats. Designers seem to be doubling down on their efforts to make investment pieces more worthwhile than ever before, and the Fall 2023 collections are chock full of incredible coats in a range of styles. It is the season to be in the market for show-stopping outerwear because no matter what it is you’re looking for, you’re probably going to find it.

There are gorpcore-adjacent technical coats from stalwart brands like Stone Island and Arc’teryx as well as riffs on those styles by luxury labels like Hermès and Dior. There are avant-garde offerings that transform the coat into a wearable work of art through collaborations with artists. There are ultra-luxe takes on classics by brands like The Row and Lemaire. There are quirky coats galore (like the one I love so much from Marni) that are big in a more abstract way. And then there are those, like the ultra-oversized bombers that Prada is offering, that are big in a very literal, almost bulbous, way.

Every year, during the first few weeks that I wear my Marni coat, I’m reminded of how good it feels to get a compliment and how invigorating it can be to embrace being a little different. Is my flattery-chasing shallow and a bit self-centred? Perhaps. But, if we’re being honest, as human beings, we crave it. It can be awkward at first, and then it becomes funny, but, ultimately, there’s something validating about being noticed for the right reasons. There’s also something incredibly liberating about breaking away from the mould — knowing that you won’t come across someone else wearing the same coat as you on your morning commute. It reaffirms our uniqueness in the face of so much conformity.

This is especially true in the dead of winter, when the weather conspires to turn dressing into a decidedly utilitarian activity — a chore, if you will. The snow, the slush and the cold do their best to stifle creativity and personal style — which is where a big, fun, boisterous, impossible-to-miss coat comes in. It turns something that represents a resignation to the power of the elements into a way of dressing for the fun of it. It cheers people up. It cheers you up!

“Clothing is there to express you,” explains Josh Peskowitz, a menswear entrepreneur whom one might call a big-coat connoisseur. “It’s how people identify one another — as we lack feathers or antlers or some other such thing — so it should be experimented with.”

I’ve been an ardent follower of Peskowitz’s Coat Chronicles on Instagram. He has made statement jackets a part of his signature style and curated an ongoing series of the best pieces from brand showrooms on his Instagram feed. “A coat that makes it into the Chronicles generally is either a superb example of a style or so f*cking outlandish that the world needs to see it,” Peskowitz explains.

For Peskowitz, outerwear is the main sartorial tool for establishing one’s identity. “You should have fun with your coats because they are the first thing people see about you,” he says. “When I lived in L.A. for a couple of years, it was about your car. In New York, it’s about the coat — and it says a lot, so try to say something witty. If you like to dress nicely, why would you put a big puffy blob over all your finery?”

The current fashion landscape is strange in that fast-fashion retailers are thriving — at the expense of both the quality of clothes and the environment — but so, too, is the luxury industry. If luxury brands struggle to compete with fast-fashion retailers for the basics, their secret weapon is the investment piece. Spending $500 on a T-shirt might be a foolish endeavour, but spending money on a coat that might last you a decade seems a much more sound decision.

For a few years now, I’ve been on the lookout for another coat cut from the same cloth as my Marni number — in a figurative, rather than literal, sense. One that’s worthy of the investment because I know that it’ll last me six or seven or even 10 years. One that warrants inclusion in my own personal Coat Chronicles. Because, for all the compliments others might lavish on you and your standout coat, isn’t that what it’s all about — your own personal style journey, where you’re the arbiter of what’s “big”? The beauty of this season’s innumerable inimitable coats is that there’s no telling where that journey will take you. So, where will your big-coat adventure start?

1/6

Louis Vuitton

Double-breasted Technical Jacquard Coat

($13,600, Louis Vuitton)

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2/6

Loewe

Mushroom Workwear Jacket in Wool and Cashmere

($5,550, Loewe)

Buy Now

3/6

Zegna x The Elder Statesman

Shawl-collar Quilted Striped Oasi Cashmere Down Jacket

($6,430, Zegna x The Elder Statesman)

Buy Now

4/6

Hilary MacMillan

Plaid Two Tone Trench Coat

($325, Hilary MacMillan)

Buy Now

5/6

Suite

Margot Quick Escape Coat

($775, Suite)

Buy Now

6/6

Burberry

Detachable-hood Checked-wool Coat

($5,900, Burberry)

Buy Now

This article first appeared in FASHION’s November 2023 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post The Power of a Statement Coat appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Calling all slope queens and kings! Whether you’re there for the skiing or just the après, Louis Vuitton is expanding its mountain gear to an assortment that’s as performance-driven as it is style-forward.

Think puffer suits, ski jackets, parkas and snow boots, as well as trousers, jumpers, beanies, gloves and scarves.

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Loewe and On partner for the third time

The third time’s most definitely the charm, according to Loewe and On who are collaborating yet again. In their latest joint project, high fashion meets everyday life with the introduction of an all-new footwear style, the Cloudtilt.

From its knitted sock construction to speed laces and responsible materials like recycled polyester, the Cloudtilt marks the latest chapter in Loewe x On’s commitment to performance and sustainability. And with each step, the shoe’s sequentially collapsing clouds adapt to the wearer’s movement, providing a comfort unmatched by its competitors.

Keep an eye out for Cloudtilt’s second drop arriving in the new year in an all-new colour palette.

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Reformation’s new capsule celebrates the New York City Ballet

Ready-to-wear meet ready-to-dance. If there is one collection that embodies all the joys in life, it’s the Reformation x New York City Ballet collaboration. I mean, what isn’t there to love when sustainable fashion and dance come together?

In honour of the NYCB’s 75-year anniversary, Reformation has designed the ultimate balletcore capsule. Aesthetically inspired by Jewels, the 1967 ballet dreamt up by late choreographer and NYCB founder George Balanchine, rich jewel tones and staple ballet shades (you know, soft pinks) bring ballerina-off-duty styles to life. Plus, baroque-inspired toile and silky fabrics make appearances in the form of frothy skirts and elegant dresses.

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Ssense celebrates 20 years with a series of collaborations

Ssense, the Canadian-bred e-tailer that has gone on to find bona fide global success, is celebrating 20 years of being the cool kid on the fashion block. To mark this milestone, the technology platform has launched Ssense XX, an interactive microsite which will house a series of limited-edition product drops.

Daily, from October 11 to November 7, new shoppable products will become available, and they’ve all been created in collaboration with different designers. Already out are ERL, Rick Owens and 032c’s pieces. Stay tuned for what’s to come.

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Gucci Cosmos travels to London, England

Heading to the U.K. anytime soon? A must-see is Gucci’s itinerant exhibition, Gucci Cosmos, which just arrived at 180 Studios in London, England (only 500 metres from The Savoy, where Guccio Gucci worked as a luggage porter and liftboy in his youth) and will remain open until December 31.

Conceived by British contemporary artist Es Devlin and curated by Italian fashion critic Maria Luisa Frisa, the project will take visitors on a journey of past, present and future Gucci, with different immersive rooms transporting them through the heritage of the fashion house.

Peter Do has a Banana Republic collection

New York-based designer Peter Do has designed a capsule for Banana Republic and it’s full of versatile and genderless pieces. (With a level of quality that truly feels designer, might we add?) At the risk of sounding trite, this collection serves at the table of quiet luxury.

“For BR x Peter Do, we focused on universal pieces designed with an eye towards versatility, wearability, and a timeless point of view,” says Do in a release. “We both believe in quality and the end goal is to dress people in clothes that they will want to re-wear with a feeling of newness each time.”

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The post Louis Vuitton Ski Is Here + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

The fashion for mourning jewellery comes and goes, but it often surges each time a historical heavyweight expires — like Charles I. When he lost his head in 1649 after dissolving parliament too many times, his supporters circulated flat-topped crystal-quartz rings decorated with a golden crown or the king’s initials. Miniature portraits of Charles proliferated in lockets and pendants inscribed with the mournful message “The glory of England has departed.”

Planning ahead

Before William Shakespeare departed (a few decades ahead of Charles), he set money aside for good friends to have rings made in his memory. And Samuel Pepys arranged for over a hundred mourning rings to be distributed among his family, friends and servants after his death. Mourning jewellery was as much a marker of death then as coffins and widow’s weeds were.

Royal grief

But it wasn’t until Queen Victoria came along that mourning jewellery truly took off. Victoria had always been a jewellery fanatic. Prince Albert created and commissioned many pieces for her during their years together, and when he died in 1861, Victoria naturally expressed their love in mourning jewellery. From the Victorian era arose a new decorative vocabulary for death and commemoration. Funereal images of urns and weeping willows multiplied. Pearls symbolizing tears and winged cherubs of everlasting love poured forth. Clouds became shorthand for Heaven, and knots and ships’ anchors telegraphed the steadfast bonds between the dead and the living.

The jet set

The iconic Victorian mourning material was jet — a lightweight fossilized wood compressed into striations in the coastal cliffs of Whitby in northeast England. Matte black jet was hand-carved or lathed into jewellery and polished to a high sheen with congealed river mud. By the mid-1800s, Whitby had gone from having 50 jet manufacturing workshops to 200, employing around 1,500 men.

Besides jet, there were other sombre-hued stones and materials that became morbidly stylish in Victoria’s day. Onyx, black tortoiseshell, vulcanite and bog oak were staples, as were agate, gold, ivory and garnet.

When Victoria and Albert’s daughter Alice died at age 35, her mother had a dramatic piece created consisting of a black onyx heart in the centre of a Rosicrucian onyx and enamel cross. “Alice” was spelled out in diamonds beneath a diamond-studded crown. When Victoria’s mother died, Albert had a pendant made out of diamonds and agate with a miniature portrait inside and a consoling message inscribed on the outside.

Hair and heartbreak

Brooches, cameos, bracelets, pendants, rings and lockets were favourite forms of jewellery because they could contain something of the dearly departed. Mourning jewellery was intensely personal, with its etched inscriptions and initials, pictures and locks of hair under glass. Hair was especially popular because the Victorians believed it was the last remaining essence of the person and therefore sacred.

In the early 19th century, Swedish women created an industry out of hairwork, weaving and braiding hair into jewellery components. They cleaned the hair by boiling it in soda water and then organized and bundled it into different lengths. It was then braided and woven into moulds, which were mounted on round or oval cases. Hair was worked into the design of jewellery pieces, stiffened with egg white, combed and then glued onto the surface to give the piece texture and pattern. Sometimes hair was ground into powder, mixed with sepia-coloured cuttlefish ink and used to paint sad scenes, like a woman weeping next to a tombstone. People even wore bracelets and rings woven out of their loved one’s tresses. At the height of the Victorian mourning jewellery trend, England was importing 50 tonnes of hair a year.

Brooklyn jeweller Margaret Cross has revived haircrafting in contemporary mourning jewellery. Her hair-woven pieces are set in recycled metals and topped with crystal domes.

Ashes to… diamonds?

The most modern iteration of mourning jewellery is lab-grown diamonds created from finely ground cremation ashes. Carbonized and mixed with elements to obtain a hue — like nitrogen for yellow — the ashes are ennobled into (for some of us) the most precious gems of all: a little bit of our loved ones, immortalized and with us till we die.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s October 2023 issue. Find out more here.

The post Mourning Jewellery Is Having a Moment appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

On a gloomy Saturday morning this past spring, I knocked on a stranger’s door and waited to be let in. I was there to get my hair braided and was equipped with the essentials of a hair appointment: an inspo screenshot from TikTok waiting on my phone, some almonds in case I needed a snack, four packs of braiding hair and my fingers crossed for a good experience. Three and a half hours later, I walked out with perfect waist-length golden-brown braids. I also walked out as a certified true-crime connoisseur.

During my appointment, my stylist and I binged the entire Murdaugh Murders: A Southern Scandal series on Netflix, chatting about our own opinions and conspiracy theories the entire time. She updated me on cases that had happened in our area and strongly encouraged me to subscribe to the 24-hour Court TV channel that she watches. I admired her knowledge about and passion for crime, but I also quickly came to admire my own ability to transform into a person who was just as interested in and passionate about a topic I’m normally lukewarm about (at best). The experience got me thinking about how my hair — or, more specifically, the process of getting my hair done — has shaped my personality.

Growing up, I would get my hair straightened with a hot comb. To avoid getting burned, I’d sit as still as a statue and stare at the wall, the ceiling, my lap — ignoring all distractions around me. The only time I dared to move was when my mom instructed me to fold down my ear so she could get to the very edges of my hairline. And while my friends complained about their hair taking 15 minutes to straighten, I would think about the three hours of stillness required to get my own hair so sleek. To me, it was worth it. To this day, I’m able to tap into that place of calmness and serenity with ease, silencing the anxiety and chaos of the world around me — an ability that has outlasted all of my many hairstyles.

Another time, when I was seven years old, my mom took me to get my hair done at the mall for the first time. She had made sure to call ahead to confirm they felt comfortable working on Black hair. They said yes. But, in an experience many Black women sadly know quite well, it quickly became clear that that wasn’t the case. I walked out of the salon with a soaking-wet afro after the stylist finally admitted she couldn’t figure out how to dry my hair. As I left with a towel draped around my shoulders, past a line of white women and girls, each watching with joyful anticipation as their new hairstyles came to life, it was as if I could feel my skin thickening in real time. Today, its protective guard envelops me in uncomfortable situations.

In my adolescence, I decided to pursue journalism as a career because I was good at connecting with people about the things they were passionate about. I thought my shape-shifting ability to conjure up interest in niche topics was something I was naturally good at. And perhaps, in part, it was. But upon further reflection, I realized it was a skill that I’d been unconsciously practising in the salon since childhood.

Hair grows and sheds. It gets cut, dyed, braided, wrapped and covered. It’s always changing. That’s why I’ve never been too attached to my own. But as I style and transform my hair, my personality changes, too. Because when I walk into a salon, I’m opening myself up to an unknown experience. A new house, a new environment, a new stylist. The day I got my braids done, I loved true crime in a way that I’ve loved ’90s music videos or the latest season of Too Hot to Handle in previous sessions with other stylists. Like Cinderella transforming for the ball, with each appointment I become untethered from my true reality for a brief moment in time.

As we approach the colder months, I’m gearing up to get braids again. It’s my go-to style for protecting my delicate hair from brisk winds in the winter. And with braids, I don’t need to worry about my hair getting messy when I need to throw on a hat for extra warmth. I’m going back to the same braider as last time, where I’ll connect with her by turning into a true-crime superfan once more. Even if it’s just until the clock strikes midnight. Or for the three and a half hours it takes to finish my braids.

Ahead, the products Ebonie Walker uses to keep her strands healthy in between styling sessions.

DesignMe Fab.Me Leave-In Treatment

“I douse my braids with this leave-in spray to keep them hydrated and smelling great.”

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Mielle Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil

“I use this TikTok-viral oil to soothe my scalp after it’s been parted and pulled into different styles.”

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African Pride Moisture Miracle Shea Butter & Flaxseed Oil Moisturize & Define Curling Cream

“If I’m wearing my hair natural, I use this leave-in to deeply moisturize it before styling it.”

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Ouai Super Dry Shampoo

“This is the dry shampoo I reach for to refresh my hair when it’s in a protective style.”

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This article first appeared in FASHION’s October 2023 issue. Find out more here.

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post “As I Style and Transform My Hair, My Personality Changes, Too” appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Timely, yet timeless. Functional, yet fashionable. Casual, yet head-turning. It’s the new Levi’s x Crocs collaboration we’re talking about, of course. Two iconic brands have come together to deliver a statement-making shoe: Denim clog Crocs. The best part? Each pair comes with a handful of premium Jibbitz, custom made for the partnership.

And here’s how to style Crocs like a pro, if you’re wondering.

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Introducing Creating Infinity: Yayoi Kusama x Louis Vuitton

Clear a spot on your coffee table for a fashionable new tome. Creating Infinity dives deep into the unprecedented (and iconic) partnership between world-renowned artist Yayoi Kusama and French fashion house Louis Vuitton, unveiling the core artistic themes that have inspired their joint collections. And it’s full of exclusive tidbits.

The Rizzoli hardcover includes excerpts from some acclaimed voices in the music, fashion and art industries, including designer Marc Jacobs, musician Arca and curator Philip Larratt-Smith.

Okayok reveals its Fall 2023 collection

Canadian-made label Okayok has released its Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Dropping in two batches (one already out, the second arriving September 25), the light-hearted designs are filled with geometric shapes and eye-catching colours.

“I wanted the pieces to feel familiar but also unexpected,” says Okayok founder and designer Adrienne Butikofer of the Bauhaus-inspired line. Call it dopamine dressing, these cheery separates are just what we need as daylight dwindles and temperatures drop.

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Holt Renfrew launches The Men’s Edit Event

Exclusive to its Vancouver location, Canada’s leading fashion and lifestyle retailer Holt Renfrew has launched the inaugural Men’s Edit Event. From September 21 to October 8, customers will enjoy loads of menswear-focused events and offers, from a variety of brands spanning ready-to-wear, accessories, grooming and more.

Expect trunk shows from Reigning Champ, a fall 2023 collection preview by Thom Browne (who is also offering custom made-to-measure pieces), the launch of Agolde men’s fall 2023 collection, personal footwear from Santoni, plus so much more.

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Sentaler opens a new Toronto flagship

This week, Canadian outerwear brand Sentaler (seen on the likes of Halle Berry, Gigi Hadid, Sofía Vergara, Emily Blunt and Kate Middleton, to name a fashionable few A-listers) opened the doors to its new flagship location.

Set within Toronto’s Yorkville Village at 55 Avenue Road, the shop contains all the right items to kick off coat season.

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Dolce & Gabbana puts a spin on gamer gear

Calling all gamers. Leading global lifestyle gaming brand Razer has collaborated with Dolce & Gabbana on some fashionable video game essentials including a headset covered in the D&G monogram, the luxurious Razer Chroma RGB gaming chair, and sleek black designer sweats.

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The post Denim Crocs Are Here + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

 

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It’s true what they say: All good things must come to an end. Earlier this week, news broke that after two glorious decades together, Sarah Burton and Alexander McQueen are going their separate ways.

During her 13-year tenure as creative director of the brand, Burton became known for her commitment to craftsmanship and marrying conceptual storytelling with impeccable tailoring. She’s also been responsible for some serious wow-worthy red carpet, runway and royal style moments, like Kate Middleton’s wedding dress and Timothée Chalamet’s Dune premiere ensemble. Her final contributions to the fashion house will be revealed in Paris later this month at the brand’s Spring 2024 ready-to-wear show.

“Above all I want to thank [the late] Lee Alexander McQueen,” says Burton in a release from the brand. “He taught me so much and I am eternally grateful to him. I am looking forward to the future and my next chapter and will always carry this treasured time with me.”

RELATED: What’s With All the Recent Shake-Ups in the Fashion Industry?

Barbie and Roots collaborate

Pink and plastic dolls aren’t what normally come to mind when envisioning a woodsy cabin trip, yet somehow, in Roots’ recent collaboration with Barbie, it works. (Barbie can do anything, duh.) The lineup of sweatshirts, sweatpants, varsity jackets and leather goods all marry the iconic Roots salt and pepper colourway and block lettering with Barbie’s curvy penmanship and unmistakable pink. What’s more, a limited-edition Barbie doll is available for purchase — and she’s dressed head to toe in the most iconic Roots styles.

RELATED: Justice for Weird Barbie

The Louis Vuitton [Extended] podcast is here

Fashion junkies, listen up (literally). Louis Vuitton has launched an exclusive podcast, Louis Vuitton [Extended], that dives deep into the many iconic stories behind the brand. Hosted by French fashion journalist Loïc Prigent, the podcast will release two episodes each month. Expect to learn a bit more about the creative minds turning the wheels — like womenswear creative director Nicolas Ghesquière and master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. First up is Pharrell Williams discussing his debut show as men’s creative director.

Introducing contemporary fine jewellery label, Authorne

Allow us to introduce you to contemporary artist Rachel Bu’s new fine jewellery line, Authorne. What sets this Canadian-Chinese designer apart isn’t an expat status (she’s a New Yorker, now) or an intensely curated product line, it’s her ability to turn intricate, sculptural objects into wearable art, all while infusing it with her own personal history — a hybrid of Eastern and Western influence. Call it a negotiation of duality, Bu is surely one of a kind.

Central to the inaugural collection are five motifs: the Octopus, the Cicada, the Guardians, the Angel & Devil and the Mother Chain, but Bu also takes on custom projects for anyone hunting down a true bespoke piece.

RELATED: Jewellers Are Using Kintsugi To Upcycle Broken Gems

Simons unveils a regenerative cotton denim collection

New denim for fall? An absolute must! Especially these new circular cotton denim pieces from Simons. The collection — comprised of jeans, overalls and a denim skirt — is derived from regenerative agriculture, using 78 per cent fewer cubic metres of water and emitting 35 per cent less carbon dioxide than conventional denim. Style tip: Pair a piece from this capsule with chic loafers and an oversized bag for the perfect autumnal outfit.

Canada Goose’s latest campaign just screams “girl power”

Canada Goose’s latest Live in the Open campaign tells a story about female empowerment. It’s photographed by the iconic Annie Leibovitz, and features three powerhouse women: actress and musician Sheila Atim, BAFTA-winning wildlife filmmaker and cinematographer Sophie Darlington and Olympic ice hockey goalie Kimberly Newell. Captured on the red hills of New Mexico, these three women are each sporting the Canada Goose Fall 2023 collection in their own unique way.

With files from Annika Lautens

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The post Sarah Burton Exits Alexander McQueen + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Modernity, timeless beauty and independence can be used to describe David Yurman’s values, which is what makes their newest global ambassador such a great fit. Meet Sofia Richie Grainge, 2023’s It girl, participant of the quiet luxury movement, and the jewellery label’s newest muse. She stepped into her new role at David Yurman with the brand’s Sculpted Cable Bracelet campaign, which features images of an exquisite-looking Richie Grainge that perfectly capture the essence of laid-back luxury.

RELATED: It’s the Summer of Sofia Richie Grainge

Hilary MacMillan introduces the Jardin De Chenonceau collection

To mark Hilary MacMillan’s 10-year anniversary, the Canadian label has launched a special Fall 2023 collection that pays homage to its affinity for colour, texture and size inclusivity, all with a perfect autumnal touch. Think plush velvets, rich jewel tones, faux furs and vegan leathers. Watch this space, as the collection will be released in three drops.

H&M launches a kid’s collection in collaboration with Eva Chen

Just in time for the back-to-school season, H&M has unveiled a limited-edition kid’s collection in collaboration with best-selling author, former magazine editor and multi-hyphenate style icon Eva Chen. A mom herself, Chen included her daughter in the design process to view the collection through youthful eyes.

“There’s just something so unique about how a child experiences the world,” Chen said in a release from the brand. “I can’t wait to see how kids everywhere, including my own, live and play in these pieces for years to come.” The gender-neutral separates, all of which have a ’90s influence, were designed with play and function in mind.

Concept boutique Absolutely Fabrics opens in Toronto

 

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Searching for a little more individuality in your wardrobe? Look no further than Absolutely Fabrics, Toronto’s newest concept store filled with unique contemporary and designer pieces from brands like Puppets and Puppets, Luar and Canadian label Beaufille, as well as an impeccable curation of vintage fashion.

“We want to be the retail partner for emerging designers that becomes a destination for those shoppers who want what no one else has,” says founder and creative director Kaelen Haworth. What’s more, within Absolutely Fabrics is a full-service event and studio space that is available to the creative community for shoots, exhibitions, artist talks and other projects.

Harry Rosen introduces designer brands to its collection

Ahead of its 70th anniversary next year, Harry Rosen is making some exciting brand changes. The legacy men’s retailer has added contemporary designer brands — from Kenzo and Balmain to Marni, Maison Margiela and Zegna x The Elder Statesman — to their collection in an effort to connect with a younger, more fashion-forward audience. But don’t fret, the beloved Harry Rosen point of view that current clients know and cherish remains.

Ownever paints the town pink

Ownever, the newest name in luxury bags, has introduced its latest limited-edition style: a blush pink handbag featuring only the finest repurposed leather. A bag this cute? You’ll want to hold onto it forever. Ownever redefines timeless fashion through offering a lifetime of repair services, so you can keep this handbag for generations on end.

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The post Sofia Richie Grainge Is the New Face of David Yurman + More Fashion News appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

RELATED: Introducing FASHION’s September Cover Stars: 5 Iconic Canadian Supermodels

 

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If the decisive word of the 2010s was “epic” (think epic win, Epic Meal Time, epic bacon), then the mot du jour of our current day may well be “iconic.” A vocabulary staple uttered everywhere from runways to RuPaul’s Drag Race, the word is now used to describe everything from candid photographs of celebrities to a fictional character’s wardrobe (cough, Shiv from Succession). No longer reserved for those who have reached the apotheosis of celebrity (or at least in their professional field), “iconic” has become ubiquitous, casually tossed off to express a baseline level of esteem or admiration. So what does it really mean to be iconic? And if everything from Harry Styles to platform Crocs can be considered iconic, has the designation officially lost its lustre?

In The Star as Icon, academic Daniel Herwitz strives to understand the phenomenon — “that endlessly talked about and little understood persona, object of adulation, fantasy and cult.” He suggests that iconicity is defined by a fizzy chemical reaction that happens when beauty, charisma and fame collide. An icon is a supernova of fame — a distillation of pure desire. If everyone contains some degree of allure, then icons have been blessed with a heavily concentrated version of it: a gallon of eye-watering 192-proof rocket-fuel vodka compared to the average person’s one-ounce cocktail.

Depending on who you are, an icon might be an assemblage of qualities you strive for but never quite reach — your stylistic North Star.

But rewind to the eighth century and an icon wasn’t the Middle Ages equivalent of Zendaya; it was a religious painting. Derived from the ancient-Greek word “eikṓn,” meaning “image” or “likeness,” an icon was a Modigliani-esque portrait of a biblical figure like Saint Peter, the archangel Gabriel and, of course, Jesus Christ. According to Brisbane Catholic Education’s Catholic Identity page, “it is prayer to just look attentively at an icon and let God speak.” Each icon was usually depicted with a halo of light encircling their head to denote a saintly aura.

Modern icons may be missing their halos, but, arguably, a whiff of spiritual ascendance still clings to the moniker. If ancient icons were meant to be a portal to all things holy, then our current icons tread familiar terrain. Icons are usually women we want to look at, be in close proximity to and develop a parasocial relationship with, like Addison Rae or Emma Chamberlain. We crane our necks to look up at them, creating a natural hierarchy that places them on top. They may not be sacrosanct, but icons give us something to worship.

 

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And similar to saints, each icon represents something different. Icons are unique and irreplaceable. No star has come close to Sevigny’s singular proclivity for risk taking when it comes to both acting roles and outfit choices. And there’s an air of mystery behind the familiar facade that allows us to project our own fantasies onto her as well. Could we be just like Sevigny if we purchased her old Depeche Mode T-shirt or Versace mini-dress? A true icon leaves us with more questions than answers.

That everything is iconic now speaks to the overall widening of our cultural gaze. The people who command our attention are no longer a select group of movie stars and musicians but are relatively regular, yet undeniably attractive, people who happen to be somewhat entertaining, good at dancing or great at selling products. But the most important quality of an icon is that they have a lasting impact — something that can only be assessed in hindsight.

 

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Calling something or someone iconic is perhaps the highest compliment a person can bestow. It’s not something to be taken lightly. Depending on who you are, an icon might be an assemblage of qualities you strive for but never quite reach — your stylistic North Star. For a certain type of fashion-obsessed person who fetishizes the cultural era of downtown New York in the ’90s (a.k.a. me), Sevigny is definitely one. It’s natural and human to want to claim some of that stardust for ourselves. So perhaps it’s ironic that as society moves toward greater inclusivity, the biggest compliment is undergirded by exclusivity. But so what? Aren’t we all, in our own way, a little bit iconic?

This article first appeared in FASHION’s September 2023 issue. Find out more here.

The post What Does It Mean To Be “Iconic” in 2023? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.